Tuesday, September 25, 2018

Classic Apple Pie


 
Was it a perfect apple pie? No. Absolutely no. I promised to tell you about it no matter how it went, though, so here are some words on the subject.

I maintain that the best and most important part of an apple pie is the apples. That being said, I really don’t care if they are the perfect baking apples that soften just right without slumping into sauce. I wouldn’t mind if they still had some crunchy bite to them even after being cooked. I mostly just want them to taste great, to have a well-balanced, warming sugar-and-spice accompaniment, and I’m much happier if they came from a tree in the local area. There’s just some kind of fresh punch unique to new-crop apples, even if they’re baked in a pie.


Also, though, the baked fruit in a fruit pie is even better if it is encased in a great crust. I’m not even going to say perfect. I’m not going to say professionally fussy. Great is good enough. That’s an area, however, in which my baking is kind of meh. (I swear, I used to be better at this!) It’s not because I don’t understand the subtle nuances of great pastry. I know that the butter (or other fat) needs to be kept cold and to end up in flaky layers of not-too-wet flour. That flour also should not be over processed so that too much gluten develops, making a crust that isn’t crisp and doesn’t flake, and, at worst, is tough or gummy. I know that pie crusts should be egg washed so that they bake up to a lacquered golden brown.

 
My excuse? I baked this pie on a Monday afternoon/evening after having escaped The Day Job early. I had put in too many hours on too many days and was pretty much exhausted, bleary of eye, weak of leg, apathetic of perfection. I wanted apple pie, not the experience of making a perfect one.

It was still good, of course. It was apple pie. Classic, double crust. Lots and lots of local apples, enough, but not too much sugar, plenty of cinnamon, a hint of nutmeg. Served warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, it filled the niches and hit the points that apple pie ought to: homemade, delicious, warm, and comforting. Utterly successful in the representation of early autumn. A warm sweater in anticipation of sweater weather.

 
Would it have been better if I hadn’t added too much water to the crust, and processed the dough too long, or if I had egg washed it and baked it longer to achieve a crisper texture and lustrous golden hue? Probably. Do I need to evaluate my life so that I can make changes that allow for fulfilling, perfect-pie making experiences? Probably. Right now, this is what is real. It is also what is good.

There are lots of other people on the internet that strive for perfection in things like this. They are wonderful. They are inspirational. Maybe some of them are even perfect. I will leave The Perfect Apple Pie to them. Mine will do for now.


Classic Double-Crust Apple Pie
Based on a recipe from Better Homes and Gardens

It is best to use “baking apples,” that is apples that get pleasantly soft but hold their shape when baked. I used the Wealthy variety of locally-grown apples, which work pretty well. Granny Smith apples are usually reliable if you do not have a go-to favorite. Personally, I do not mind if the apples do not cook perfectly in my pie.

For the crust:
2 ¼ cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon fine salt
11 tablespoons cold butter, cut into small pieces
About ½ cup ice water

For the filling:
3 pounds apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Egg wash (beaten egg mixed with water or cream), if desired


1. To make the crust: combine the flour and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse a few times to mix. Add the cold butter pieces and pulse until the butter is in pea-size, flour-coated pieces.

2. Add about 4 tablespoons of the ice water. Pulse to distribute. Continue adding ice water about 1 tablespoon at a time, processing and adding water until the dough just begins to form a ball and holds together when firmly squeezed.

3. Press the dough together with your hands to form a large ball. Divide the ball into two equal portions. Form each portion into a disk and wrap well with plastic wrap. Chill until firm, about 2 hours. (Or chill until needed for about 2 days or wrap well and freeze for up to 3 months.)

4. Preheat oven to 375 F. On a well-floured surface roll one portion of the crust dough into a circle about 12-inches in diameter. Drape into a 9-inch pie plate. Arrange to fit without stretching, allowing excess to drape over the edge of the plate.

5. In a large bowl combine the filling ingredients. Mix together to coat the apples well. Pile the apple mixture into the pastry-lined pie plate. It will be very full.

6. On a well-floured surface, roll the second pastry dough disk into a 12-inch circle. Cover the filling with the pastry. Crimp the edges of the crust together, sealing in the apples. Press the edges into a decorative shape if desired. Cut a few slits in the top of the crust to allow steam to escape. Brush the crust with egg wash if using

7. Place the pie on a baking sheet to catch any overflowing juices. Bake at 375 F for 1 hour to 70 minutes, or until the apples are soft and the crust is golden brown. Check after about 40 minutes. If the crust seems to be darkening too rapidly, cover the pie with foil.

8. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature (or re-warm cooled pie slices in the microwave.)

Makes about 10 servings.





Coming soon: Tomatillo Chickpea Curry, a new apple cake, and World Vegetarian Day….


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