If you are the proud owner of
a rhubarb plant or two, you may have noticed that rhubarb is conspiring to take
over the world. My plants are thick and lively, and each is sprouting several huge
flower stalks that look like something from an alien or prehistoric
landscape. (Or are those super-sensitive communication antennae being used to coordinate
the rhubarb revolution?)
I have many favorite rhubarb recipes, but in the spring and early summer, I’m looking for new ways to
feature it. Yesterday, I decided to revisit a recipe that I have been
shamefully neglecting since posting it: clafouti. I figured the rhubarb could
be a good substitute for the cherries in the traditional recipe, and I could
make some tweeks to accommodate its unique characteristics.
If you are not familiar with
clafouti (you might also see “clafoutis”), it is a custard-like dessert with some
added flour that gives it a bit of cake-like backbone. It should be somewhat
dense for a custard, but not rubbery or gluey, not quite getting to the heavier
texture of a dumpling. It’s somewhat sweet, but the custard itself has a relatively
mild flavor so as not to overshadow the fruit that it holds together. Cherry is
a common fruit in clafouti, but pears, apples or prunes can be featured as
well. I’ve even made a savory version with cherry tomatoes.
The properties of rhubarb I
thought I would need to compensate for in my most recent clafouti are its extreme
sourness and its excessive moisture. I adjusted for the tart taste by simply
adding more sugar, and I put in some extra flour in hopes of counteracting the
extra water I thought would be coming with the rhubarb.
The results were delicious! There
was plenty of the tart flavor of the rhubarb all through each bite, but it was
tamed by just enough sugar. The custard base was denser due to the extra flour,
but it was still very tender and melt-in-your mouth smooth without being weepy
or watery. The clafouti puffed up dramatically when baking, rising about an
inch and a half above the edge of my pie plate. It stood tall, however, holding
itself up rather than slumping or spilling over.
There’s a splash of brandy in
this recipe, too, and while I can’t say I could taste it specifically, it adds
a little something to the custard. I’ve also been playing around
with Toasted Sugar, as made famous by Stella Parks. (You can find the method to
make your own here at Serious Eats). I made up a whole batch and have been
including it in most of my baking. I used it in my Rhubarb Clafouti, which
added some subtle caramelly undertones, but you can make a good dessert with regular
granulated sugar as well.
Personally, I welcome our new
rhubarb overlords, since I’ve been a big fan of theirs most of my life. Just
don’t tell them I know the invasion is in progress. I’m not quite ready to give
up my desserts.
Rhubarb Clafouti
Based on a recipe in The Joy of Cooking
4 large eggs
1 cup sugar
1 cup milk (I used 2%)
1 tablespoon brandy
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 cup al-purpose flour
1/8 teaspoon salt
¾ pound chopped rhubarb
Powdered sugar or whipped cream
for serving
1. Preheat oven to 375 F. Butter
a 9 or 10-inch deep dish pie plate or a 10-inch cast iron skillet. Set aside
2. Whisk the eggs together in
a medium-size bowl. Gradually whisk in the sugar. Continue to whisk until the mixture
is very smooth and has slightly thickened, about 2 minutes.
3. Whisk in the milk, brandy,
and vanilla extract. Gradually whisk in the flour, making sure no large lumps
form. Whisk together until smooth.
4. Arrange the rhubarb in the
bottom of the prepared pie plate or pan. Pour the egg mixture over the rhubarb.
5. Carefully transfer to the
oven. If you use a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate, it will be very full. Put the plate
on a baking pan in the oven to avoid spilling over, if desired.
6. Bake at 375 for 10
minutes. Reduce the heat to 350F. Bake an additional 35-40 minutes, or until the
center is set and no longer liquid. The clafouti will puff considerably when
baking, but will collapse at least slightly as it cools. Cool 5-10 minutes.
Slice into wedges and serve warm with a sprinkling of powdered sugar or a
dollop of whipped cream.
Makes about 8 servings.
Leftovers can be stored in the refrigerator and reheated.
Other recipes like this one:
Cherry Clafouti, Rhubarb Custard Pie, Rhubarb Custard Bars, Savory Cherry Tomato Clafouti
One year ago: Orange and White Chocolate Cookies
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