Thursday, June 7, 2018

Rhubarb Clafouti



If you are the proud owner of a rhubarb plant or two, you may have noticed that rhubarb is conspiring to take over the world. My plants are thick and lively, and each is sprouting several huge flower stalks that look like something from an alien or prehistoric landscape. (Or are those super-sensitive communication antennae being used to coordinate the rhubarb revolution?)


I have many favorite rhubarb recipes, but in the spring and early summer, I’m looking for new ways to feature it. Yesterday, I decided to revisit a recipe that I have been shamefully neglecting since posting it: clafouti. I figured the rhubarb could be a good substitute for the cherries in the traditional recipe, and I could make some tweeks to accommodate its unique characteristics.

If you are not familiar with clafouti (you might also see “clafoutis”), it is a custard-like dessert with some added flour that gives it a bit of cake-like backbone. It should be somewhat dense for a custard, but not rubbery or gluey, not quite getting to the heavier texture of a dumpling. It’s somewhat sweet, but the custard itself has a relatively mild flavor so as not to overshadow the fruit that it holds together. Cherry is a common fruit in clafouti, but pears, apples or prunes can be featured as well. I’ve even made a savory version with cherry tomatoes.

The properties of rhubarb I thought I would need to compensate for in my most recent clafouti are its extreme sourness and its excessive moisture. I adjusted for the tart taste by simply adding more sugar, and I put in some extra flour in hopes of counteracting the extra water I thought would be coming with the rhubarb.

The results were delicious! There was plenty of the tart flavor of the rhubarb all through each bite, but it was tamed by just enough sugar. The custard base was denser due to the extra flour, but it was still very tender and melt-in-your mouth smooth without being weepy or watery. The clafouti puffed up dramatically when baking, rising about an inch and a half above the edge of my pie plate. It stood tall, however, holding itself up rather than slumping or spilling over.

 
There’s a splash of brandy in this recipe, too, and while I can’t say I could taste it specifically, it adds a little something to the custard. I’ve also been playing around with Toasted Sugar, as made famous by Stella Parks. (You can find the method to make your own here at Serious Eats). I made up a whole batch and have been including it in most of my baking. I used it in my Rhubarb Clafouti, which added some subtle caramelly undertones, but you can make a good dessert with regular granulated sugar as well.

 
Personally, I welcome our new rhubarb overlords, since I’ve been a big fan of theirs most of my life. Just don’t tell them I know the invasion is in progress. I’m not quite ready to give up my desserts.


Rhubarb Clafouti
Based on a recipe in The Joy of Cooking

4 large eggs
1 cup sugar
1 cup milk (I used 2%)
1 tablespoon brandy
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 cup al-purpose flour
1/8 teaspoon salt
¾ pound chopped rhubarb
Powdered sugar or whipped cream for serving

1. Preheat oven to 375 F. Butter a 9 or 10-inch deep dish pie plate or a 10-inch cast iron skillet. Set aside

2. Whisk the eggs together in a medium-size bowl. Gradually whisk in the sugar. Continue to whisk until the mixture is very smooth and has slightly thickened, about 2 minutes.

3. Whisk in the milk, brandy, and vanilla extract. Gradually whisk in the flour, making sure no large lumps form. Whisk together until smooth.

4. Arrange the rhubarb in the bottom of the prepared pie plate or pan. Pour the egg mixture over the rhubarb.

5. Carefully transfer to the oven. If you use a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate, it will be very full. Put the plate on a baking pan in the oven to avoid spilling over, if desired.

6. Bake at 375 for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350F. Bake an additional 35-40 minutes, or until the center is set and no longer liquid. The clafouti will puff considerably when baking, but will collapse at least slightly as it cools. Cool 5-10 minutes. Slice into wedges and serve warm with a sprinkling of powdered sugar or a dollop of whipped cream.


Makes about 8 servings. Leftovers can be stored in the refrigerator and reheated.



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