Thursday, August 27, 2020

Recipe Revisit: Zucchini Quick Bread



I make so much of this stuff every summer. More than anyone but me really cares to deal with. That means I access this recipe from way back in The Archives quite a bit. And one day, I actually read my written instructions, and realized that I never really do things that way anymore. I mean, who has time to pull out the stand mixer and clean it later when the summer squash is piling up like, well, summer squash.

Anyway, I have adjusted the procedure for my go-to basic zucchini quick bread batter to reflect the way I really do things today: sift or whisk together the dry ingredients, beat the wet ingredients and sugar together, making sure the eggs get smooth and a little fluffy-thick, combine the mixtures while avoiding overmixing, and folding in shredded zucchini and, optionally, nuts. The batter makes two 8-inch loaves, but it also makes about 2 dozen muffins, and I’ve added muffin baking instructions. They take less time to bake and less time to cool, so provide something closer to instant gratification.

 
This basic recipe is great as it is, but it’s also a jumping off point for fun variations, and I do that often. I like the whole grain addition of a bit of whole wheat pastry flour, but you could use just all-purpose, or try another whole grain flour. You can put in some cocoa powder and chocolate chips for a particularly decadent version. You can stir in berries or add a streusel topping. In addition to cinnamon you can add more warm spices like cloves, nutmeg or cardamom, or use a spice mixture such as apple pie spice, Pumpkin Pie Spice, or even Chinese five spice powder. Or you can leave them all out in favor of citrus zest. 


Even some of the basic batter ingredients can be varied. The buttermilk can be replaced with yogurt, kefir, or a mixture of yogurt and milk. The neutral oil can become a flavorful oil, like almond or hazelnut, or melted butter. Take things to a new level by browning the butter, maybe.

Most recently, I baked half of the batter into a loaf and the other half became muffins. You could even make a 13 x 9-inch coffee cake. (Bake for 50-55 minutes.) There are just so many choices! Which is great, because with all the zucchini that are coming in, I need all the creative options I can get.






Zucchini Quick Bread
This basic recipe is widely variable. See the text above for some notes on variations.

2 ¼ cups all-purpose flour
1 cup whole wheat pastry flour (or additional all-purpose)
1 ½ teaspoon baking powder
1 ½ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon fine salt
2 teaspoons cinnamon
3 eggs
1 ½ cups granulated sugar
½ cup canola or other neutral-tasting oil
2/3 cup buttermilk
2 cups shredded zucchini
1 cup chopped pecans or walnuts (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 350 F. Prepare 2 8-inch loaf pans by spraying well with cooking spray or greasing with butter. Set aside.

2. In a large bowl, combine the flours, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. Stir together with a whisk to combine. Set aside.

3. In a medium-size bowl, combine the eggs and sugar. Whisk vigorously until the mixture is thick and pale in color. Wisk in the oil and buttermilk.

4. Pour the egg mixture into the flour mixture. Stir together until most of the dry ingredients are moistened. Stir in the zucchini. Stir in the pecans or walnuts if using.

5. Divide the batter between the two prepared loaf pans. Bake at 350 F for 45-50 minutes or until a wooden pick or skewer inserted in the center comes out with just a few crumbs and no wet batter.

6. Cool in the pans on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Remove from the pans and cool completely on the wire rack.

To make muffins: grease or spray the cups of muffin pans. You will need 20-24 total muffin cups. Portion the batter into the prepared pans and bake at 350 F for 20-25 minutes. Cool in pans for 10 minutes, then remove to cool.


Makes 2 8-inch loaves of bread or about 24 muffins.

You can also make 1 loaf of bread and about 12 muffins with the recipe.
 




Saturday, August 15, 2020

Creamy Sauteed Corn




This side dish is simple, quick, endlessly variable, and I want to eat it all the time. A few times each summer, when I have lots of fresh corn on the cob, I cut some off and toss it in a pan with some other flavorful ingredients. Making it buttery and creamy is optional, but terrifically delicious.

Mostly, I use what I have on hand, but I do really like this sort of Southwestern version with peppers, onions, and cilantro. Diced tomatoes would also be good stirred in at the end, as would avocado sprinkled on top. I always debate whether I should add cumin, ground coriander seed, or chili powder. They would certainly be good additions, but I kept things summery and fresh in this version.


There are other flavor profiles that would work with the corn, too. I’m thinking caramelized onions, shiitake mushrooms, lots of fresh herbs. I love the richness of cream or half and half here, but you could lighten things up and leave it out. You could also make this vegan by cooking with your favorite oil instead of butter and either substituting the cream with coconut milk or omitting it entirely.

Think of this as a basic recipe that you can make your own. This way with corn is so versatile, you can make it any time with what you have on hand. You could even turn it into a main dish by adding some black or pinto beans. And if you don’t mind me sharing a secret, I’ll tell you that it’s mighty fine when made with ordinary supermarket frozen corn in the middle of winter, too. If I’m smart enough to cut and freeze some of my golden summer bounty now, I really can eat this all the time.


Creamy Sauteed Corn

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons minced red onion
¼ cup finely diced red bell pepper
½ teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt, divided
2 cups corn kernels (cut from about 4 fresh corn cobs)
1 medium clove garlic, minced
½ small fresh chile pepper, minced (or to taste)
¼ cup heavy cream or half and half
1 medium scallion, finely chopped
¼ cup cilantro, finely chopped

1. Melt the butter in a medium-size or large skillet over medium heat. Add the red onion, red bell pepper and ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook 3-5 minute, or until the peppers and onions are softened and the onion is translucent.

2. Add the corn and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring frequently until the corn is lightly browned, 8-10 minutes. Stir in the garlic and chile.

3. Stir in the cream. Bring to a simmer and decrease the heat to low. Continue to cook until the cream has reduced to a thick coating on the vegetables.

4. Stir in the scallion and cilantro. Continue cooking just until heated through. Taste and adjust seasonings, especially salt, as desired.

Makes 2 large or 4 small side dish servings.



Another recipe like this one: Scalloped Corn with Sour Cream and Chile



Wednesday, July 22, 2020

Rosemary Cheddar Soda Bread


 
This time of year is so exciting! It’s such a thrill to be able to stir, stuff, or sprinkle something I grew in my backyard into my cooking as often as I do. Even a handful of fragrant fresh herbs turns a simple soda bread dough into a seasonal delight. Well, that and a few handfuls of cheese.

 
Soda bread couldn’t be easier to make with its relatively few ingredients and unfussy techniques. That just leaves more room, not to mention personal energy, to tinker with the batter and add extra flavors. In this case the end product is a rich and satisfying savory, cheesy bread with the vibrant piney aroma of fresh, fresh rosemary.

The sharp cheddar is really great here, but you could use other cheeses you like, or other fresh herbs. I also think you could swap in some whole grain flour. I hope to try it with a bit of rye flour, drawing on my reminiscence of rye bread and cheddar cheese sandwiches I loved as a kid. 

 
I’ve made this bread a couple of times and I like a slice of it alongside just about any simple supper. I most recently served it with Summer Vegetable Hash, and it’s good with soup or an omelet or frittata. It’s great a little warm, and when it’s a day or so old, it benefits from a bit of toasting.

While I’m enjoying this recipe as a celebration of fresh rosemary from the pot on my back patio, I’ll be happy to take this cheesy, savory version of classic Irish soda bread with me into any season.


Rosemary Cheddar Soda Bread
Adapted from foodnessgracious.com

2 cups all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon fine salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
2 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese
1 cup buttermilk


1. Preheat oven to 425 F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

2. In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking soda, salt, pepper, and rosemary. Whisk together to combine well. Add the cheddar cheese and toss together to coat the cheese with the flour mixture,

3. Pour in the buttermilk and stir together until all of the dry mixture is moistened. Add a little more buttermilk if the mixture stays too dry.

4. Pull the dough together with your hands and dump out onto a floured surface. Gently knead the dough a few times and shape into a rough ball. The dough will be a bit wet and sticky.

5. Place the ball of dough onto the prepared baking pan. Cut a deep X in the middle of the dough, at least ¼-inch deep.

6. Bake at 425 for 20-30 minutes or until the top of the loaf is well browned and a wooden pick inserted in the center comes out with no wet batter sticking to it.

7. Cool on the pan on a wire rack for at least 20 minutes. Slice to serve, either warm or at room temperature.

Makes about 6 servings.