Wednesday, July 22, 2020

Rosemary Cheddar Soda Bread


 
This time of year is so exciting! It’s such a thrill to be able to stir, stuff, or sprinkle something I grew in my backyard into my cooking as often as I do. Even a handful of fragrant fresh herbs turns a simple soda bread dough into a seasonal delight. Well, that and a few handfuls of cheese.

 
Soda bread couldn’t be easier to make with its relatively few ingredients and unfussy techniques. That just leaves more room, not to mention personal energy, to tinker with the batter and add extra flavors. In this case the end product is a rich and satisfying savory, cheesy bread with the vibrant piney aroma of fresh, fresh rosemary.

The sharp cheddar is really great here, but you could use other cheeses you like, or other fresh herbs. I also think you could swap in some whole grain flour. I hope to try it with a bit of rye flour, drawing on my reminiscence of rye bread and cheddar cheese sandwiches I loved as a kid. 

 
I’ve made this bread a couple of times and I like a slice of it alongside just about any simple supper. I most recently served it with Summer Vegetable Hash, and it’s good with soup or an omelet or frittata. It’s great a little warm, and when it’s a day or so old, it benefits from a bit of toasting.

While I’m enjoying this recipe as a celebration of fresh rosemary from the pot on my back patio, I’ll be happy to take this cheesy, savory version of classic Irish soda bread with me into any season.


Rosemary Cheddar Soda Bread
Adapted from foodnessgracious.com

2 cups all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon fine salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
2 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese
1 cup buttermilk


1. Preheat oven to 425 F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

2. In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking soda, salt, pepper, and rosemary. Whisk together to combine well. Add the cheddar cheese and toss together to coat the cheese with the flour mixture,

3. Pour in the buttermilk and stir together until all of the dry mixture is moistened. Add a little more buttermilk if the mixture stays too dry.

4. Pull the dough together with your hands and dump out onto a floured surface. Gently knead the dough a few times and shape into a rough ball. The dough will be a bit wet and sticky.

5. Place the ball of dough onto the prepared baking pan. Cut a deep X in the middle of the dough, at least ¼-inch deep.

6. Bake at 425 for 20-30 minutes or until the top of the loaf is well browned and a wooden pick inserted in the center comes out with no wet batter sticking to it.

7. Cool on the pan on a wire rack for at least 20 minutes. Slice to serve, either warm or at room temperature.

Makes about 6 servings.





Saturday, July 18, 2020

Summer Vegetable Hash



There are a few go-to not-really-a-recipe recipes that I rely upon for celebrating or even just using up really great summer produce. Usually it’s hot, tossed pasta dishes like this one or this one; stir fry, like this one; chopped vegetable salads like this one and this one, or soup. After a recent bit of messing around, I’m going to confidently add another category: vegetable hash.


I know, hash sounds so dull, so old fashioned. So lumberjack-y. Well, get over it. This frugal classic can be fresh and lively, a bright medley of sautéed vegetables, pumped up with golden fried potatoes. The method is simple; so simple that you might even call it rustic. But like every other rustic dish that stands the test of time, it’s extremely satisfying. This particular version was surprisingly tasty, the verdant flavors and delicate crunch of browned summer vegetables and new potatoes enhanced by deeply browned onions.

I used yellow summer squash (from my garden) and super-fresh green beans (from someone else’s garden), for my hash, but you can customize what’s in your frying pan. I feel that potatoes are a must for it to be hash, but other forms of summer squash, such as zucchini or patty-pans are no-brainer substitutions. Cauliflower, broccoli, bell peppers, and sugar snap peas would be good here, too, although cooking times might need to be adjusted.

You could add some protein to this simple hash by stirring in diced ham, cooked bacon, beef or chicken, some seasoned firm tofu cubes, or cooked chickpeas. You could also melt a layer of cheese on top at the end of cooking, or serve it with a fried or poached egg. Bread of some kind is nice on the side. I liked the Rosemary Cheddar Soda Bread I baked the same day (more on that soon), but a crusty country slice or a piece of whole wheat or rye toast would be mighty fine, too.

 
To make a Summer Vegetable Hash, you don’t need a lot of one ingredient or another, just a few handfuls of whatever is fresh or even cooked and left over (adjust cooking times accordingly). You don’t need any special skills or equipment, just a knife and a pan and the ability to use each without hurting yourself. You don’t need to be ready to show off to make hash, you just need to be hungry at breakfast, brunch, lunkfast, dinner, supper or midnight. 




Summer Vegetable Hash
I like to par-cook potatoes before frying them. I usually use the microwave and offer some simple instructions for that here. You could use leftover cooked potatoes, too. Just don’t cook them in the pan as long. They just need to be cooked through and thoroughly browned.

¾ pound thin-skinned potatoes
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup finely chopped onion
1 teaspoon coarse salt, divided
½ pound yellow summer squash, cut into ½ to ¾ -inch pieces
4 ounces green beans, stem ends removed, cut into ½ inch lengths
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Partially cook the potatoes. I use the microwave as follows: poke the skins of the potatoes in several places with a fork or sharp knife. Place in a microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on high for 3 minutes. Shift the positions of the potatoes in the bowl so those on the bottom are moved to the top. Microwave for 1-2 minutes more depending on the size of the potatoes. The potato flesh should give just slightly when squeezed. Set aside until cool enough to handle. (Or cool and refrigerate for a day or two.)

2. Cut the cooled potatoes into about ½ - ¾ -inch cubes.

3. Heat the olive oil in a cast iron skillet over medium heat (or use your favorite skillet.) Add the onion and ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the onions are just beginning to brown, about 5 minutes.

4. Add the potatoes and another ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook 5-8 minutes, turning the potatoes frequently until they are golden brown.

5. Add the squash, green beans, and ¼ teaspoon more salt. Cook and stir the mixture another 8-10 minutes, or until the potatoes are well browned and the squash and beans are browned and tender-crisp. The onions will be very brown and caramelized at this point.

6. Stir in the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt, pepper, and thyme leaves. Cook a minute or two more until the thyme is wilted. Adjust seasonings if needed. Garnish or embellish as desired.

Makes 2 large main-dish servings or 4 side dish servings.



Coming Soon: Rosemary Cheddar Soda Bread and 7 Favorite Summer Muffins


Sunday, July 12, 2020

Cherry Almond Muffins




When I buy cherries it’s usually with the Grand Design to make Something Wonderful. Then, when I’m faced with the challenge of pitting a heap of cherries, I back down. I end up just eating them out of hand (nothing wrong with that), or giving in to my procrastinator self and letting them waste away undeservedly in the fruit drawer of the refrigerator (lots wrong with that.)

My Phase 1 Baby Steps solution to this problem was to make muffins. My solution to a lot of problems is to make muffins.

These Cherry Almond Muffins are a simple variation of these plum muffins. In fact, I think plums, peaches, and other stone fruits could be substituted for cherries in this recipe, or really in any similarly rustic application.


I, of course, played on the cherry’s affinity for almonds but I wanted a bit of spice, too. I couldn’t decide which warm spice (cinnamon, cloves, etc.) to add, so I sort of chose not to choose and put in some Chinese five spice. (If you read enough of Dorie Greenspan’s baking books, she’ll convince you to try it in your baking.) There’s just a smidge in there, which worked really well, lending an aura of warm spice in the background without overwhelming the cherry-almond bliss or pushing the muffins out of summer and into fall.

Overall, these were a satisfactory cherry treat. They’re delicious, gently sweet, fruity, and a little crunchy. They are breakfast, mid-morning or afternoon snack, or dessert. And, they’re plentifully fruity with just a cup of chopped cherry flesh, which means I don’t have to be so intimidated by the chore of pitting cherries.


Cherry Almond Muffins
You can swap in cinnamon, cloves, or any other warm spice for the Chinese five spice.

I used sweet Bing cherries in these muffins, but I think sour cherries would be good, too. You may want to add a little more sugar with sour cherries.

6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup all-purpose flour
½ cup whole wheat pastry flour
¾ teaspoon baking powder
¾ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon Chinese five spice
1 large egg
¼ cup granulated sugar
¼ cup dark brown sugar
½ cup buttermilk
¼ teaspoon almond extract
1 cup coarsely chopped pitted fresh sweet cherries
½ cup finely chopped almonds

1. Preheat oven to 375 F. Spray a 12-cup muffin pan with cooking spray (or grease it with butter or oil.) Or you can line the muffin cups with paper liners if you prefer.
2. Melt the butter and set aside to cool.

3. In a medium-size bowl, combine the all-purpose flour, whole wheat pastry flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and Chinese five spice. Stir together with a whisk (or you can sift if you prefer).  Set aside.

4. In another medium-size bowl beat the egg lightly with a whisk. Whisk in the melted butter. Whisk in the granulated and brown sugar, then whisk in the buttermilk and almond extract until smooth.

5. Pour the egg mixture into the flour mixture and stir until just a few dry spots remain. The batter will be thick. Stir in the cherries and almonds.

6. Distribute the batter evenly among the prepared muffin cups. Bake at 375 F for 15 to 18 minutes or until a wooden pick inserted in the center of a muffin comes out free of wet batter.

7. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for about 5 minutes. Carefully remove the muffins from the pan. If they are difficult to remove, cool a little longer. Cool completely on a wire rack, or at least until they are just a little warm.

Makes 12 muffins