Thursday, February 28, 2019

Spinach and Feta Quiche



I realize that I posted a quiche recipe just a little while ago, but here’s another one anyway: no excuses, no apologies, no regrets. The basic formula is the same in its ratio of dairy and eggs, but this one has a vegetable in it. I also took down the butterfat in the filling by forgoing the luscious heavy cream and using low fat milk instead. It’s still really good. And some Parmigano-Reggiano makes up for it quite well, thank you.

While I love, love, love quiche, my relationship with pie crust has become decidedly love-hate. I want to make good pastry by hand, but find it time consuming, and when my crusts are lackluster at best, it’s really disappointing. (I try not to have rage.) For this quiche, I made my first attempt at the luxurious All Butter Pie Dough recipe in Sister Pie by Lisa Ludwinski. (I’m dying to have time to explore this book and this seemed like the proper place to start.)


This dough recipe is a labor of love, with the butter (much, much butter!) cut into the flour by hand, and the ice water-vinegar mixture worked in by hand. You may be able to do this with a food processor, but I wanted to experience this whole thing at its most primal level. About one third of the way through I was questioning my own sanity.

I used to make pie crusts this way, and I don’t remember finding them this painfully difficult. I won’t grumble, because I don’t want you to be discouraged by my laziness. I think everyone who has an interest in learning things about good food should do this for themselves. (And the engaging instructions and photos in Sister Pie are a great place to get your lessons.) In the end, the crust was probably the best I’ve ever made!


That being said, I did learn something important about making quiche, and blind baking crusts in general: you’re going to need to use visual cues and develop some experience to get the crust right. I didn’t bake mine long enough because I followed the instructions I used with the store-bought crust (and some other homemade crusts) that encased my quiches in the past. Ludwinski’s All Butter Pie Dough is special and needs more time in the oven, perhaps because of all of the butter, perhaps because the crust ends up thicker.

Ok, so quiche is much more than crust. Spinach and feta are wonderful with eggs, and this was a fabulously delicious example of that. I also stirred a dose of good parmesan (the Real stuff, actually, but use what you like) into the custard mixture, and its flavor permeates and enhances every bite. I didn’t miss the cream in the custard, but it would still be good if you like extra-rich quiche. The lighter mixture was perhaps a cleaner showcase for the spinach and the sharp, creamy feta cheese.


So, in the last few weeks, I’ve posted a rich and bacony quiche and a lighter vegetarian one. Hopefully this demonstrates the power that quiche has to take on many forms and suit many tastes and needs. Lots of things can be mixed in. It can be served at any meal. Once the crust is mastered (or purchased), it really doesn’t take very long or require many cooking tricks.

And I will continue on my pie crust Odyssey. If you really can’t do crust, there’s always frittata. Enjoy!


Spinach and Feta Quiche with Parmesan
Adapted from Better Homes and Gardens

You can use your favorite pie crust recipe here. I tried out the recipe for the All Butter Pie Dough in the book Sister Pie by Lisa Ludwinski, which is similar to Pate Brisee from classic sources like Martha Stewart. I found that it really needed more time in the oven during the blind baking stage, and recommend you use color and other visual cues to determine whether your crust is properly blind baked rather than time.


1 pastry for a single-crust pie
4 eggs
1 ½ cup milk (I used 2%)
¼ teaspoon coarse salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
½ cup freshly grated or shredded Parmesan cheese
About 4 ounces frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed dry, about ½ cup once squeezed
½ cup crumbled feta cheese


1. Preheat oven to 450 F. Roll out the pastry dough into about a 12-inch circle. Drape into a 9-inch pie plate. Crimp the edges decoratively if desired.

2. Spray one side of a sheet of aluminum foil with nonstick cooking spray. Place the foil, spray side down, on the pastry. Place pie weights inside the foil. Bake the crust at 450 F for 8 minutes, or until the crust is just beginning to brown. Remove the foil and the weights. Return to the oven and bake 4-10 minutes more, or until the crust is gently browned and appears dry. The time will depend on your crust recipe, with store-bought crusts taking less time than thicker, buttery homemade ones. When the crust is finished blind baking, remove from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 325 F.

3. While the crust is baking, begin the filling. Beat the eggs in a medium-size bowl. Beat in the milk. Stir in the salt, pepper, nutmeg and Parmesan.

4. Place the pie plate with the baked crust onto a sheet pan. Spread the spinach evenly over the bottom of the crust. Sprinkle the feta cheese evenly over the spinach. Pour the egg mixture over all, being careful not to overflow the crust.

5.Place the quiche on the sheet pan into the oven and bake at 325 F for 40-45 minutes, or until the center is just set. A knife inserted in the center will come out without any liquid egg on it.

6. Remove from the oven and cool at least 10 minutes. Cut into wedges and serve warm or at room temperature.

Makes 8 main-dish servings. Leftovers can be covered and stored in the refrigerator. Warm in the microwave to serve (the crust will not remain crisp, but all will still be pretty tasty.)



One year ago: Caraway Rye Soda Bread

Coming soon: Raspberry Cream Cheese Baked French Toast!



Saturday, February 23, 2019

Fluffy Orange Pancakes


 
Did you know that you deserve pancakes for breakfast every day? Because you do. And you deserve all your favorite flavors mixed into pancakes, plus all your favorite toppings. This should be your life. It really could be that easy.

Ok, so I’m dreaming for all of us. I know producing an exciting hot breakfast on a busy morning is likely to be completely out of the question. It totally is for me. But then there’s that snowy morning when I have all the need for comforting deliciousness and all the time I need to create it, and just the perfect person to share it with. That’s how these seasonally delicious orange-infused pancakes came to be on a Saturday morning.

This recipe came from an old (like 18 years old!) recipe clipping. (I’m an incurable hoarder.) I swapped out the lemon in the original recipe and made my pancakes with orange juice and zest. I also used some sour cream to increase their rich tanginess, and took out some of the butter. 

 
I kept the most important part of that old recipe: the puffy, beaten extra egg whites. They are the key to making a fluffy batch of griddle cakes with a bit of bounce and a souffle-like consistency. These pancakes do deflate as they stand, so are best eaten as soon as possible after getting them off the griddle. I recommend a pat of butter and real maple syrup for serving, but a fruity sauce would be good, too.

 
Pancakes or other delicious breakfasts that go beyond turning on a toaster or pouring some milk may be an unachievable dream most days of the week, but I think I’ll be happy to dream of these Fluffy Orange Pancakes until I get a chance to make them again.



Fluffy Orange Pancakes
Adapted from Better Homes and Gardens

1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon fine salt
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
Finely grated zest of 1 orange
2 tablespoons unsated butter, melted and cooled
1 egg yolk
½ cup sour cream
½ cup freshly squeezed orange juice
3 egg whites

1. In a medium-size bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and sugar. Whisk together to combine well. Add the orange zest and whisk or stir in to distribute evenly. Set aside.

2. In another medium-size bowl, combine the melted butter, egg yolk, sour cream, and orange juice. Whisk together until smooth. Pour into the flour mixture. Stir together just until the dry ingredients are moistened.

3. In another medium-size bowl, beat the egg whites with an electric mixer until they are glossy and form stiff peaks. Spoon a small amount of the beaten whites into the batter mixture. Mix together somewhat briskly to lighten the thick batter. Gently fold in the rest of the egg whites, a little at a time, to make a light, fluffy batter.

4. Preheat an electric frying pan or griddle to 350 F, or heat a skillet over medium heat. Drop the batter in about ¼-cup scoops. Gently smooth out each pancake into a relatively round shape, but without deflating the batter. Each pancake will not spread out much, but should stay puffy as it cooks. Cook until golden brown. Flip each pancake and cook until the other side is golden brown. Keep the pancakes in a warm oven until ready to serve. These are best served just after they are made.

Makes about 10 4-inch pancakes.







Saturday, February 16, 2019

Recipe Revisit: Chickpea Stew with Apricots



This was one of those recipes that I made once, thought was wonderful, and then never made again. I couldn’t recall why this stew wasn’t something I wanted to make often, except, perhaps that it has a lot of parsnips in it, which I only tend to use in the deepest of winter, when there’s not such exciting produce to choose from. I did report having some trouble getting the chickpeas cooked properly using the method of the original recipe, so I sort of rearranged things to improve that.

For starters, I cooked the chickpeas first and separately. I think there was too much acid in the stew to cook the chickpeas along with everything else. That may have been what caused them to stay too firm, no matter how long I cooked the stew. This worked well, and also allowed the stew to be cooked in shifts, each taking a little less time than cooking everything all at once. (My schedule demands this!)

The rest of my adjustments involved streamlining the process, making it more like I make other soups and stews: sauteeing vegetables, stirring in spices, stewing the vegetables with the cooked beans, adding the final touches and seasonings, and adjusting the flavors to taste.


This recipe makes a big, big pot of stew, and could probably be halved. It also makes a subtly flavored stew, slightly sweet from all those parsnips with some fruity and floral notes from the apricots. It’s hearty and satisfying. It’s got a healthy nutritional profile with good doses of protein and fiber. It’s also vegan, if that happens to matter to you.

With its fairly mild flavor profile, this stew has plenty of room for other taste improvisations. The natural sweetness makes me think you could add cinnamon and allspice to the seasonings. Lots more spice, in the form of more chile, or curry powder or paste would be good. Other vegetables, such as bell peppers, could replace the parsnips in other seasons. Add some greens, like spinach or arugula.

Overall, this recipe revisit was a success. I made the necessary changes to make the process more approachable. I got more ideas on how to vary the flavors satisfactorily. And, most importantly, I made a big pot of comforting stew to warm us from the inside in this winter that will not end.


Chickpea Stew with Parsnips and Dried Apricots
If you start with cooked chickpeas, you will need 3 ½- 4 cups.

I think you could cut the recipe quantities in half would good results. You could also adjust the spices and seasonings to your personal taste.

If you get your chickpeas (or any dried beans) very fresh, you may not need to soak them before cooking. I usually have good results with a 6-8 hour soak.

12 ounces dried chickpeas
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 ½ cups chopped onion
1 cup chopped celery
2 cups chopped carrot, about ½ inch dice
2 cups chopped parsnip, about ½ inch dice
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon cumin
1 teaspoon dried oregano
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
6 cups water
2 bay leaves
1 cup finely chopped dried apricots
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Chopped fresh parsley for serving

1. Rinse the dried chickpeas and sort out any debris or chickpeas that don’t look good. Place the chickpeas in a large pot or bowl. Cover with at least 2 inches of water. Let stand 6-8 hours.

2. Drain the soaking chickpeas. Return them to the pot and cover with a few inches of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat. Cook the beans at a low boil until they are soft but not yet falling apart. This could take up to an hour, and can be done a day or two ahead. Drain the cooked chickpeas and set aside.

3. Heat the olive oil in a large (6 quart or larger) pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, carrot and parsnip. Cook, stirring often for about 10 minutes, or until the onion appears softened and translucent.

4. Stir in the tomato paste, salt, cumin, oregano and crushed red pepper flakes. Cook about one minute, stirring frequently. Add the cooked chickpeas, bay leaves and water.

5. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and cover. Cook at a gentle boil until the vegetables are very tender, about 35-45 minutes.

6. Stir in the apricots and cook until they are soft. Stir in the lemon juice. Taste the stew for seasonings and adjust as desired, especially for salt and acid. Garnish each serving with chopped parsley.

Makes a big pot of stew, probably about 8 servings.



One year ago: Curry Carrot Soup