Thanksgiving!

I’m all in favor of feasting. I think the best way to celebrate something, anything, is with a collaborative effort of creative culinary minds resulting in a groaning board that is quickly but gratefully dismantled by hearty eaters. My best and fondest memories are of such events, almost always with family, and occasionally with good friends. It usually seems like it’s all about the food, but cheerful chatter and lots of laughing are always a big part of the celebration, too. I’ve been fortunate that way.

I’ve never really hosted a Thanksgiving dinner for more than two people (including myself), but I contribute when I can (this year, again, I’m bringing the pumpkin pie and cranberry sauce), but I’d have to be an idiot to not recognize the effort that goes into choreographing such an event for a crowd. As difficult and perhaps stressful as that huge meal can be to put together, especially with the average Thanksgiving dinner expectations, it’s becoming just as difficult to keep genuine gratitude at the forefront of the celebration. If one were merely to watch television commercials to determine the gist of the American cultural scene of late autumn, one might think Thanksgiving is merely the kickoff of the Christmas shopping season with the Big Dinner as a carbo-load for Black Friday shopping. And this kickoff date seems in danger of creeping ever earlier (as soon as the Halloween candy and decorations are sold off at clearance prices, the Christmas stuff takes their place on the shelves). Will we soon be tricked into skipping Thanksgiving altogether because it’s not as marketable as other holidays?

I think we’re smarter than that. I think we need holidays and activity to help us through the dark and the cold and the snow of the approaching winter, but we know what they really mean at their core, and that doesn’t have to be the same thing for all of us. I think most of us know what we are fortunate to have and we are grateful for it, even if it is not the same kind of thing for which others are grateful. You don’t have to subscribe to a particular or any religion or feel that you owe someone to celebrate and give thanks.

So, I wish you a happy Thanksgiving, and hope you have a fabulous celebration. I also hope you can take some time between unfastening your tightening belt and the football game and the shopping spree to remember what is good in your life, especially the simple things. Laugh a little. Have some fun. Dig in to a good meal if possible. Offer a toast or two, or a prayer if that’s your preference. Actually say, “Thank you,” to the folks in your life who deserve it. And, for goodness sake, thank the person or persons who cooked your Thanksgiving dinner!

While it’s probably best if you already have your Thanksgiving meal planned by now, here are a few recipes from The Messy Apron archives that I think would go well on a Thanksgiving table.
Broccoli Stem and Kohlrabi Slaw
Cranberry Sauce (the can is out of the question!)
Crunchy Cabbage, Cauliflower and Apple Salad
Grandmama’s Pumpkin Pie
Red Cabbage Slaw with Apples and Cranberries
Roasted Vegetables
Spaghetti Squash Salad with Greek Flavors
Spinach Salad with Apples and Maple Walnut Vinaigrette
Sweet and Tart Broccoli Salad
Wheat Berry Salad with Roasted Vegetables and Maple Walnut Vinaigrette

And, if you’re serving people who prefer a vegetarian meal, you might consider main courses such these:
Quinoa Stuffed Squash
Winter Vegetable Galettes with Cheddar, Mustard and Caramelized Onions
Winter Squash and Leek Empanadas with Sage
Winter Squash and Onion Curry with Yogurt Sauce

Spiced and Spiked: Mulled Apple Cider

And so the season begins. The season of fighting off the gloom and depression of the dark and cold days of winter with holidays and celebrations and gatherings and, say it with me, really great food. Many of us visit and give thanks and give gifts. Some worship, some cook, some feast, some fight, and some shop ‘til they drop. Some spice up the days to get by, while others prefer to have their holidays spiked.

I believe it’s a basic fact of human nature that we need these celebrations too keep us from going off the deep end during the late fall and winter, especially in places with excruciatingly short days and cold temperatures and snowy roads. I really think, however, that we put too much pressure on ourselves (as well as our friends and families) when it comes to these year-end celebrations. Sure, we set out to give honor and thanks to and for what is important to us, and generously wish to find the perfect gifts for loved ones or make the season brighter for those who may not have enough. But, let’s face it: we all too often make ourselves crazy in the process.

Because we need to calm down a bit to stay sane, to sit back and relax and contemplate what is meaningful to us, or what we are thankful for, or why exactly it is that we can’t stand to be in the same room with Aunt Mildred, I offer you a warm and flavorful apple cider drink for your sipping pleasure. Because we also need to spice up these darkening days, this cider is steeped with a handful of sassy spices as well as a few strips of orange peel. Because a spiked drink may be just what the nerves seem to need, there is also an optional plug of apple brandy.

This cider is quite spicy, and I really went through the cabinet in hopes of creating an especially complex flavor. I recognize that the average kitchen, even during the holidays, might not be stocked with quite so many whole spices, and I think you could leave out what you don’t have and still make something pretty good. Heck, I forgot to put the cardamom in last time I made this and, while I, tasting critically, could tell it wasn’t there, the cider was still delicious and comforting. Really, the cinnamon is the most important part and you could probably make a delightful cider without anything else added. Don’t put the added pressure on yourself of going out to gather spices in the cold.

The apple brandy (I used Apple Jack) brightens the flavors of the final beverage, and it might also serve to brighten the conversation at your next gathering. You can leave it out, and if you do, this becomes a nice drink for breakfast or an afternoon break. I tend to split the batch and spike half of it for evening relaxation and leave the rest untainted for morning or daytime sipping.

Whatever you celebrate or use as an excuse to gather over the next six weeks or so, I hope you have a pleasant and peaceful time. Spiked or just spiced, you make the call, but perhaps also take the time to sit back and sip rather than gulp in the whole holiday season while giving thanks, enjoying your loved ones and taking in some really great food.

Mulled Apple CiderThe amount of alcohol in this drink is modest. Adjust it to your liking or leave it out entirely.

8 cups (2 liters) fresh apple cider
6 cardamom pods, crushed
3-4 small chunks crystallized ginger (about 1 heaping tablespoon or 15 ml)
6 whole cloves
6 whole allspice berries
2 whole star anise
3 4-inch (about 10 cm) cinnamon sticks
1/4 inch (about 0.5 cm) chunk whole nutmeg or ¼ teaspoon (1 ml) grated nutmeg
4 1-inch (2.5 cm) wide strips orange peel
½ cup (125 ml) apple brandy, such as Calvados or Apple Jack (optional)

1. Pour the cider into a large pot. Add all of the remaining ingredients except the brandy. Cover and bring to a boil.

2. Reduce the heat and simmer gently, covered, for 30 min. Turn off the heat and let stand 30 minutes more.

3. Strain out the spices or remove them with a slotted spoon. To serve, return the cider to the heat and warm until hot. Stir in the brandy if using. Serve hot or refrigerate and rewarm as needed.

Makes 10-11 6-ounce (175 ml) servings.

Another recipe like this one: Ginger Spice Ice Cream

One year ago: Cranberry Sauce

Soup for Supper

When I made this soup, it seemed a quaint reminder of when it used to get cold this time of year, and one liked a bit of hearty soup for supper to help keep oneself warm. Though it wasn’t particularly cold outside, I happened to have lots of lovely red potatoes, many nice, large leeks, one honking huge head of Napa cabbage, and a soup recipe from the Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special cookbook. The days were getting shorter, even if they weren’t as cold as they have since become, and I was feeling a little under the weather, so soup it would be.

This soup is creamy but manages to remain light-feeling because the creaminess is provided by reduced fat cream cheese rather than cream. I also sneaked in some Gruyere cheese, which I love in cream soups with potatoes. The cheese brought along some additional richness, but not so much as to leave and oil slick on the soup. Its sharp, nutty flavor is subtle alongside the cabbage and the spices, but it’s definitely there, and is worth stirring in.

Speaking of the spices, the original recipe called for caraway, which is a no-brainer with cabbage as far as I’m concerned, but I also added some coriander seed to go along with it. I like the combination, and the coriander gives the stoic, storage-vegetable taste of cabbage and potatoes a bit of a citrusy lift. I coarsely ground whole spices, which I think results in the most flavor, and I didn’t mind the extra pop of spice that the little pieces gave to each spoonful.

I used Napa cabbage here, because that’s what I had, but the original recipe called for green cabbage. I think the Napa, which is leafier and less crunchy, may have cooked more quickly than regular green cabbage, but not so much as to require a major change in the recipe instructions. Savoy cabbage would probably also be good, although I find is flavor to be stronger, so be ready for that.

To save time and dish-washing, I used an immersion blender to puree the soup. It leaves behind some fibers and spice bits that the regular blender might pulverize, but I don’t mind if my creamy soup has a little substance as well. This was one of those simple recipes that I had a feeling I’d start making pretty often, especially if a bit of cabbage or a few potatoes need using up. If, however, I keep making it as long as that gigantic cabbage lasts, I might have my fill of the stuff until next winter.


Creamy Cabbage and Potato Soup
Adapted from Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special

While I used chicken broth in this recipe, you could use vegetable broth or water to make the soup vegetarian.

2 tablespoons butter
2 cups thinly sliced leeks, white and light green parts, well washed
½ teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds
4 cups chopped Napa cabbage (or other green cabbage)
2 cups sliced peeled potato
3 cups chicken broth (I used fat-free reduced-sodium)
3 ounces reduced fat cream cheese
½ cup (about 2 ounces) shredded Gruyere cheese
freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Melt the butter over medium heat in a Dutch oven or other large soup pot. Add the leeks and ¼ teaspoon salt. Cover and cook 10 minutes, lifting the lid to stir occasionally.

2. Pulse the caraway seeds and coriander seeds in a spice grinder (I use a coffee grinder) a few times until they are coarsely ground, or crush them with a mortar and pestle.

3. Add the cabbage and the coarsely ground spices to the leek mixture. Cover and cook about 5 minutes, or until the cabbage is well wilted, stirring occasionally.

4. Add the potatoes and chicken broth. Cover, bring to a boil and cook 25-30 minutes, or until all the vegetables are tender, stirring occasionally.

5. Remove the soup pot from the heat. Stir in the cream cheese and puree the soup, either with an immersion blender or in batches in a regular blender.

6. When the soup is pureed, stir in the Gruyere cheese. Taste for salt and add more and black pepper to taste. Rewarm if necessary.

Makes 4-5 servings.

Other recipes like this one: Celeriac, Potato and Wild Rice Soup, Cream of Carrot and Parsnip Soup, Sauteed Cabbage with Caraway and Cider Vinegar

One year ago: Crunchy Cabbage, Cauliflower and Apple Salad

Winter Instincts

I remember my school teachers going to great pains to force home the point that human beings, unlike animals, have no instincts. None whatsoever. Everything we do is learned behavior. Hmmm. Why, then, if she is not drawn by some innate drive to put on a layer of warm fat for the winter, would a cook take something relatively low in calories and high in vitamins and fiber, like, say, butternut squash, and mix it together with bread, eggs, half and half, cheese and bacon? Does she not need these additions to get her through the coming dark days?

I suppose if that cook (she shall remain nameless, but she wears an apron that’s usually pretty messy) is making a savory bread pudding to serve for supper as the days get shorter and colder and the winter squash from the CSA threatens to surpass its built-in freshness date, she could be acting within the realm of learned behavior after all. That’s not to say that this recipe is difficult or overly complicated, requiring much learning to master. If you have squash or pumpkin puree on hand, either store bought or homemade, there’s not much more to this than there is to making French toast.

I, I mean this cook, made a custard with eggs, butternut squash puree, and half and half (milk would work, too, and would have fewer calories, but it was the day before shopping day and the milk was almost gone), flavored it with Dijon mustard and a little nutmeg, and soaked homemade whole wheat bread in it. She then stirred in crisp bacon, onions that had been caramelized in the rendered bacon fat, and some nutty Gruyere cheese, and baked it all into a rich, savory and flavorful bread pudding.

It’s best to use a loaf or remnant of a loaf of bread that you can cut into thick slices and then into chunks. I’ve made this with both whole wheat and white bread, and both work well. It is also better to use day-old or older bread, since it is dry and can keep its shape and soak up the custard, plus the recipe uses up the bread that might otherwise just get stale. I did just make this with fresh bread, however, because that was all I had, and it was still very good.

And so, the cook, while adding calories to her diet for the winter, learned to make a pretty good savory bread pudding in the process. The sweetness of the caramelized onions compliments the sweetness of the squash, and the smoky bacon and tangy Dijon mustard provide a pleasant contrast that keeps the sweetness from getting cloying. This is a filling and comforting supper dish, and only needs a salad to go along side it, but it would probably be very good brunch fare as well. Perhaps the simple and wholesome squash doesn’t need bread and eggs and bacon and cheese to make it good. Well, if we’ve learned anything today, it’s that need is a relative term.

Savory Squash Bread Pudding with Bacon and Onions

4 slices thick-cut bacon
2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced
water for cooking the onions, if needed
2 large garlic cloves, minced
4 eggs
1 cup half and half or milk
1 cup pumpkin or winter squash puree, such as Roasted Winter Squash Puree
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
¾ teaspoon kosher (coarse) salt, divided
¼ teaspoon black pepper
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
4 ounces (about 1 cup) shredded Gruyere cheese
8 ounces whole wheat or white bread (preferably day-old) cut or torn into 1 to 2-inch chunks

1. In a large skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until crisp. Remove the bacon and drain on paper towels. Chop or crumble when cool enough to handle. Remove all but about 2 tablespoons of the rendered bacon fat from the pan.

2. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the onions and ¼ teaspoon salt to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally 20-25 minutes or until very soft and brown. Add water, a tablespoon or two at a time, if the onions seem to be browning too quickly. Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes more. Remove from the heat.

3. Meanwhile preheat the oven to 350 F. Beat the eggs in a large bowl. Add the half and half or milk, squash puree, Dijon mustard, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, black pepper, and nutmeg. Whisk all together until well-combined. Add the bread and stir to coat the bread well. Let stand 10 minutes.

4. Stir the crumbled bacon, cooked onion mixture and the Gruyere cheese into the bread mixture until well-combined.

5. Spray or brush a 2-3-quart shallow baking dish or casserole with nonstick cooking spray, oil or butter. Spoon or pour the bread mixture into the dish and smooth it out so that it is even in the dish. Cover and bake 30 minutes at 350. Uncover and bake 10 minutes more. Cool slightly before serving.

Makes 6-8 servings. Refrigerate leftovers and reheat to serve.

Other recipes like this one: Sweet Pumpkin Focaccia, Winter Squash and Leek Empanadas with Sage, Winter Squash and Onion Curry with Yogurt Sauce

One year ago: Potato and Bacon Frittata