Cool Cuke Soup

There is an old photo of me at about the age of three in which I am sitting on the porch with my grandfather, and we are both happily munching cucumbers, no doubt right from the garden. His is a whole cuke, his fist wrapped around it as if it were an ice cream cone. Mine is a slice or a spear, I can't remember for sure. (In my other hand is a sucker, proving that I had not quite yet achieved true-believer status.)

This is the scene that comes to mind when I think of cucumbers. I'm not sure where that photo is now, although it must be in one of my mother's albums. Perhaps next year when cucumber season rolls around again, I'll be able to post a digital copy of it here.




Until then, I have to eat all the cucumbers in our CSA box. Luckily, I love them. (As far as garden bounty goes, they're second only to tomatoes if you ask me.) Really, I could just eat all them out of hand like apples, and I think Harry could too. But I can't leave well enough alone. I have to use a recipe. I have to cut and stir and process and ladle and garnish and serve. And then I have to clean up. Someday, I suppose I'll learn to just eat them mess free, but until then, I have to fiddle with a cucumber soup with yogurt and sour cream.

I like to leave the skins on my cukes when I can. Most of those you might get from the supermarket are coated with a food-grade wax or some such thing, and others may have pesticides. This time of year, however, you should be able to get your hands on plenty of locally grown cukes. (Nothing compares to these ultra-fresh babies, really.) Our CSA cucumbers are organic, so I simply wash of the dirt (essence of Mother Earth) and eat the skins. If the cucumbers are large, however, it's likely that the seeds are large, too, so for something like this cucumber soup, I like to remove them. I either quarter the cucumber lengthwise and cut out the seeds on an angle, or, for more fun, I halve them and scoop out the seeds with a spoon.

After that, I can simply chunk them up and toss them in the food processor with the remaining soup ingredients and puree to my heart's content.

The garnish is optional, but adds a bit more flavor and texture. You could also just garnish with pico de gallo or salsa if it's more convenient. It is still summer after all, and you gotta stay cool...and you have to make time for all those other cucumber recipes!

Cold Cucumber Soup

3 cups chopped seeded cucumber

2 cups plain yogurt

1 cup sour cream

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 garlic cloves, chopped

Garnish (optional)

1 cup chopped tomato

1/2 cup chopped green onion (scallion)

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Combine all ingredients except those for the garnish in the bowl of a food processor (or you could probably use a blender). Process until well-pureed.

2. Pour into a large bowl, cover and chill at least 1 hour.

3. Combine garnish ingredients. Serve in small bowls topped with the garnish if desired.

Makes 4-5 servings.

Zucchini Frittata

I spy with my little eye, something that begins with "Z."


You guessed it. It's zucchini, and I'm falling behind in the eating of the lovely stuff we've received in our CSA boxes over the last few weeks. What to do, oh, what to do?

Actually, I have a lot of ideas for zucchini, beyond quick bread, and I like trying out something new to keep from resenting the bounty of these beautiful summer squash. And I love it when something new comes to my rescue, especially when it's in the form of a new pan! I recently received a beautiful new nonstick pan with an ovenproof handle that is just perfect for making a frittata. (I have another pan that can pull the duty, but it's much too big. Thanks for the new one Sherry! I love it!)

If you're not familiar with it, a frittata is kind of a cross between an thick, unfolded omelet and a crustless quiche. You can put just about anything in it: vegetables, herbs, potatoes, even leftover cooked rice or pasta. There are two ways to make sure the top of the frittata is cooked and not just a mess of runny eggs. You can flip it over in the pan, typically with the aid of a plate. I'm just not that talented. Okay, so I've done it, but I'm always terrified of disaster. Who wants to be all stressed out when making glorified scrambled eggs?

Me either, so I like the second method, which is to use an oven-proof pan (with and oven-proof handle) and stick it under the broiler for a few minutes. Now, my new pan came with some nice information, including a warning that I shouldn't put it under the broiler if I wanted to keep the non-stick coating from deteriorating. I compromised by putting the pan on a lower rack to do my broiling. I still get the heat from above, just not as intensely. I've read that you can cover a pan handle that is not oven-proof with aluminum foil and put it in the oven, but I have not tried this myself.

So frittata it would be. Zucchini frittata (not to be confused with Hakuna matata, but still a wonderful phrase none the less), and I could hardly wait. Neither could the zucchini, which, in case you didn't know, doesn't last forever. I sauteed zucchini and fresh onions (also from the CSA) and allowed them to stand as the foundation for the frittata. After that, it was simply a matter of pouring some beaten eggs flavored with cheese and herbs over the top and cooking it gently. I find that most of the herbs in my container garden go well with zucchini, so it was just a matter of selecting the one that was getting most out of hand (just like the zucchini). I chose orange mint for this dish. It has a citrus (also good with zucchini) hint to it, reminiscent of Bergamot, of Earl Grey tea fame.

When the eggs are almost done, the whole thing goes under the broiler to finish cooking and to brown on top. Actually pretty easy, especially with the right equipment. I love my new pan! I could go on about it for a while, but, if you'll excuse me, I spy some more zucchini that requires my attention.


Zucchini and Mint Frittata with Tomatoes on Top
If your zucchini are large, cut them in half (at least) before chopping them. You could use another kind of cheese such as Parmesan, or perhaps even aged cheddar or Gruyere.

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound small zucchini, cut into 1-inch thick rounds
1 cup sliced onion
1 teaspoon kosher (coarse) salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
5 large eggs
1/4 cup milk
1/2 cup grated Romano cheese, plus more for garnish
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint (I used "orange" mint)
3/4 cup chopped tomato

Preheat broiler.

1. Heat the olive oil in a 10-inch nonstick skillet with an oven-proof handle over medium heat. Add the zucchini, onions and salt and saute about 15 minutes, or until the onions are soft and the zucchini is beginning to brown. Stir frequently.


2. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with the milk using a whisk (or a fork). Stir in the cheese and mint. Reduce the heat under the zucchini mixture to low. Pour the egg mixture over the zucchini mixture. Stir the mixture gently, lifting the zucchini and cooked eggs to allow the uncooked portion contact with the heated pan (much the way you might cook scrambled eggs).


3. When the eggs are nearly cooked, place the tomatoes on top and place the pan under the preheated broiler, on the middle rack in the oven. Broil about 5 minutes or until the top is set and beginning to brown.

4. Remove from the oven and shave or grate additional Romano cheese over the top. Allow to stand about 10 minutes. Cut into wedges (use a plastic spatula or something like that so you do not scratch the nonstick surface of the pan!) and serve.



Makes 4-6 main dish servings.

Corn and Bean Salad

Nothing quite says summer like bags, boxes, bins, truck beds and trailers full of sweet corn. We get ours through our Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program, which, if nothing else, saves me the agony of deciding how much to buy, since what is in the box is what we get. I always get a thrill out of seeing those dark green leaves tightly gift-wrapped around their (always) sweet packages of cream and yellow with their corn-silk ribbons waiting at the bottom of the box. “Oh, for me? You shouldn’t have.”

But I play just coy with my corn. I have no intention of being bashful when it comes to ripping open those packages, boiling (or even grilling) them just until the kernels are plump (about 5 minutes), then slathering them with butter and sprinkling on just a bit of salt. The rest of the scene is a bit primal with the traditional munching and tearing of the kernels directly from the cob. There’s always someone at the table who has a bit of kernel just there on his cheek, but you don’t want to be the one to tell him, partly because you enjoy a good joke, partly because you admire, maybe even envy, his exuberance.

And then, there’s the question of whether you should ever cut corn from a cob and eat it in any other than its attached state. (Of course, if your front teeth aren’t up to the challenge, there’s really no question at all.) I suppose I’d always vote for the cob when I can get really fresh corn in season. After all, if you want detached corn, it’s pretty cheap and easy to get it canned or frozen. But if there’s plenty of fresh corn, and there’s also some great Sun Gold cherry tomatoes from the CSA, and I can get bell peppers in colors of half the rainbow, maybe it’s okay to cut some corn off the cob, toast it a bit in a pan and make a salad.

I first made this corn and black bean salad with peppers and cherry tomatoes a little while back when I was entertaining relatives with a grilled fajita dinner. At the time I used red grape tomatoes and yellow and orange bell peppers, and it was a really pretty salad. Of course I neglected to photograph it. That gave me an excuse to make it again, but I used green pepper, and somehow only ended up with the lackluster photo below. Oh well, it was still good.

I even made this with frozen corn, and it was just fine. In fact, the frozen corn was a bit easier to brown in a pan, but fresh corn is so nice and sweet, the salad really had a different flavor. I recommend tasting the final product before serving and adding additional salt and vinegar if your corn is really sweet. Whether you’re starting with cobs or kernels, this salad is easy, visually appealing, and tastes like summer in a bowl.

Corn and Black Bean Salad with Peppers and Cherry Tomatoes
In a dish like this, the exact measurement of the ingredients isn’t so important. Use what you have and enjoy summer!
1 ½ cups corn kernels (cut from 3 to 4 cobs, or thawed if frozen)
3 tablespoons cider vinegar
½ teaspoon chili powder
½ teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon honey
1 garlic clove, minced
½ teaspoon coarse salt
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 (15 ounce) can black beans, drained and well rinsed
½ cup finely-chopped bell pepper
1 cup quartered cherry tomatoes
½ cup chopped green onions (scallions)
1 small chile pepper, seeds and ribs removed, finely diced
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

1. Cook corn in a skillet over medium heat until most of its liquid has evaporated and some kernels begin to brown, about 8-10 minutes. Stir frequently. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

2. In a large bowl, combine the vinegar, chili power, coriander, cumin and honey. On a cutting board, sprinkle the salt on the minced garlic. Chop together, then press the salt into the garlic repeatedly with the side of a large knife to form a paste. (Alternatively, crush the garlic and salt together in a mortar and pestle.) Add the pasted garlic to the vinegar mixture.

3. Add the olive oil to the vinegar mixture and whisk well to combine completely. Add the remaining ingredients to the bowl and toss well to coat with the dressing. Serve at room temperature or chilled. Taste before serving and add vinegar or salt if desired (especially if the corn is especially sweet).

Makes about 6 side-dish servings.

And So It Begins: Zucchini Bread

Actually, it began a few weeks ago, but I'm only feeling its full force now. It is the coming of the zucchini, that most prolific of summer fruits. I always know it will come, yet, I always manage to fall behind, or perhaps under, its bounty. I get my zucchini from a CSA*, but if you grow your own, or have a friend who oh-so-generously forces upon you a large part of what has taken over her garden, you're probably finding yourself in a similar situation.

Don't get me wrong. I love that there's so much zucchini in the world. Since people have been trying to use it up for generations, many and various uses have been developed. It's good raw, stir-fried, stuffed. It's good with just about any herbs and with cheese. But my favorite zucchini applications tend to involve shredding it and mixing into some form of sweet baked good.

I've had muffins, cookies, and, of course quick bread made with zucchini. Zucchini quick bread recipes are perhaps as prolific as zucchini itself, so you probably have an old family recipe that you enjoy (especially if you live or were raised in the Midwest). I adapted this one from a baking book I've had forever. The addition of buttermilk makes it almost cake-like, and I love it with pecans. I also like lots of cinnamon as well as cloves and nutmeg. I usually grind whole cloves with a coffee grinder that I use just for spices, and I really recommend using whole nutmeg. It's really not that big of a deal. It can be easily grated with a Microplane grater, which are really easy to find these days. Freshly-grated nutmeg is just so much more fragrant and flavorful. It has a spiciness that I had never noticed when I would buy the ground stuff, and the "nuts" last practically forever without losing their flavor.

This recipe makes two eight-inch loaves of zucchini bread, although you could use 9-inch bread pans if that's what you have. It freezes well, and I usually cut about a loaf and a half into either slices or chunks, wrap the pieces in plastic wrap and then in zip-top freezer bags. I'm sure you could make muffins with this batter as well, although I haven't tested that for baking times. If you are finding yourself in the midst of a pile of this thin-skinned green squash with the funny name, however, there is one problem with this recipe: it probably doesn't use up enough zucchini. I guess I'll have to come to your rescue with some more zucchini recipes in the days ahead!

Zucchini Buttermilk Bread with Pecans

3 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/4 teaspoon freshly-grated nutmeg

3 eggs

1 1/2 cups sugar

1/2 cup canola oil

2/3 cup buttermilk

2 cups shredded zucchini

1 cup chopped pecans

Preheat oven to 350 F

1. In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. Stir well with a whisk to combine. Set aside.

2. Beat the eggs in a large bowl (I use a heavy-duty stand mixer with the paddle attachment at medium speed) until they are thick and pale in color. Gradually add the sugar and beat until well-blended.

3. Stir in the oil, buttermilk, and zucchini. Gradually add the flour mixture and stir until almost completely combined. Add the pecans and stir until all ingredients are well-combined.

4. Grease or spray with cooking spray 2 8 x 4-inch bread pans. Spoon half the batter into each pan.

Bake at 350F for 45-50 minutes. When the bread is done, a wooden skewer or pick inserted in the center will come out with just a few crumbs sticking to it, not a glob of wet batter.

5. Cool the bread in the pans on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Remove from the pans and cool completely on a wire rack. (Okay, so I cut into it while it's still warm. It's a weakness.)

*CSA: Community Supported Agriculture. Ours is here.