Since produce has been pretty slow this year, and grocery
shopping is less of an art form for me than it used to be (shifting to working
full time outside the home will do that), I was facing some potentially boring
or even potentially empty plates just because I didn’t feel like I had anything
interesting to work with. One day I just decided to go with the fresh herbs I
had on hand (actually, I’m not sure I had more than parsley in the refrigerator),
garlic cooked in a mixture of butter and olive oil, and some heavy gratings of
Parmesan cheese tossed with hot pasta. Supper. End of story.
This is an even simpler twist on pasta with cream and vegetables that I seemed to be making a lot over the last few years. For 8
ounces of pasta, which can be any shape, I get out my biggest skillet and melt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter with 2 tablespoons of decent extra-virgin olive
oil over medium heat. I then chop up a few cloves of garlic and cook them in
the butter-oil mixture with a heavy pinch of kosher salt for a minute or so, just
until the garlic barely begins to suggest that it might be thinking of turning
brown soon. But, hey, a little slightly browned garlic isn’t so bad, so I don’t
get too uptight over it.
Once the garlic is a little cooked, I add 1-3 cups fresh
herbs and/or greens, whatever I happen to have. I cook and stir this until the green
things are well-wilted, then just toss in the cooked pasta. It helps to have
things coordinated so that the pasta is done cooking at about the time the
herbs and greens are ready so it can be scooped right from the cooking pot into
the herby skillet. If the pasta is not yet ready when the herbs are, you can
set the pan aside until the pasta is done and re-heat it when ready.
I toss the pasta in the herbs and oil, adding a splash or
two of the pasta cooking water if I feel that everything is a little too dry. I
then turn off the heat, add a half cup or so of freshly grated Parmesan (once I
even used some provolone), mix that in, taste for seasoning (particularly salt
and/or pepper) and adjust, and serve with additional Parmesan. Easy, right?
My most recent rendition of this little ditty was made of
some parsley from the refrigerator and chives, a few leaves of baby kale, and
some radish greens from the garden. I tossed that with a four-cheese tortellini
and garnished it with chive flowers (quite edible; they taste like mild
chives). The simplest version, which I mentioned above, consisted of simply
flat-leaf parsley, garlic and Parmesan on spaghetti.
This basic method can also be a base for other seasonal
vegetables. I would cook those vegetables in the garlicky butter-oil, then toss
in the herbs. You could, of course, add meats or seafood, and I think this
would be a good way to use up leftover portions of such things. You can’t go
wrong as long as you like it, although I’d argue that if you made it overly
complicated, you might be missing the point of such a simple, fresh, seasonal
(easy, easy, easy) dish.
















I usually try to keep these plants alive over the winter in a spare room, but this never works, and most of them die. That just means I get to shop for more herbs in the spring, which is what I did recently. This year, I’m trying not to go overboard and plant more than I can use, but we’ll see how that goes. Of course, as soon as I
I had been waiting since my previous herb plantings met their demise to make a white bean soup with lots of herbs that I came up with last year, and the few cold and rainy days we had provided the perfect opportunity. I love white beans with herbs, especially sage, rosemary and thyme, and lots of garlic never hurts such a concoction. Add the usual carrot, onion and celery and simmer it all in broth and it’s soup. But it’s more than soup, really. It’s creamy white beans and perky, flavorful herbs that were picked less than an hour before they are eaten.
Usually when I make this, the ingredient list (in my head) reads more like “a big carrot, a couple ribs of celery, some onion, a handful of herbs from the porch, some broth (chicken is a little better, but vegetable will do) and some beans. Season to taste.” Well, since I’m now excited enough about this soup to post it to The Messy Apron, I tried to put some more discreet quantities in the recipe below. You can play a little fast and loose with most of the ingredients and use whatever herbs you have or like. I used sage, chives, rosemary, thyme and a dried bay leaf. (I think the sage is absolutely essential with white beans.) The sage and chives, I minced and added directly to the broth, and the rosemary, thyme and bay leaf I tied together into a bouquet garni and removed them when the soup was done. It saves the trouble of de-leafing the thyme or having to chew on rosemary leaves, but still gets the flavors of those herbs into the soup.
