Thursday, May 5, 2011

Blind Baking


Blind baking pie crusts, or baking them in the pan before filling them with something that needs to be baked for less time than the crust or not at all, is a little more than slamming an unbaked crust all by itself into the oven and hoping for the best. A little more, but still not difficult.

I use this technique to make quiches and things that are a lot like quiches and the Ham and Onion Pie with Rye Crust I made recently. Well, frankly, I blind bake crusts when the recipe I’m following tells me to do so and lays out the instructions for when and how long to do it. You may, however, come across recipes that call for a fully-baked or partially-baked crust (although according to Joy of Cooking, fully-baked is usually a better option for avoiding soggy crusts in almost all circumstances.) If a pie or tart is filled with uncooked custard, like a quiche, you can bet it’ll call for a blind baked crust. If the pie filling, like jam or a cooked pudding, custard or curd, needs no cooking at all, you can also count on blind baking before loading up the pie.

In my recent savory pie adventure, I tried a variation on a basic pie crust in which I added stone-ground rye flour. It went pretty well for a whim, turning out crispy and crunchy. Its whole-grain nature was apparent but the crust was still flaky and flavorful and held the pie filling as it was supposed to. I’ll post the recipe for the pie soon, but today I’ll give you the crust recipe as well as the details for blind baking.

Most of the time, blind baking involves getting the crust dough nicely into the pie or tart pan, lightly pricking it with a fork, lining it with foil, weighing it down with something and baking it in a hot oven. The foil and weights are then removed and the crust is baked a little longer, usually “until done,” which I’ve taken to mean browned, dry-looking and no longer doughy. Times and temperatures tend to vary slightly with the recipes, and you should probably follow the recipe writer’s instructions (chances are that they are a professional, unlike me). If you need a baked crust, however, and your recipe assumes you already know how to do that, you should get good results with the procedure I outline below.

Just a few words on pie weights: You can purchase pie weights, which usually look like a handful of ceramic or metal marbles. I have a set of ceramic weights, which were inexpensive and quite useful. If you don’t want to buy something that seems to have so few uses, many cooks, chefs and writers recommend using dry beans or rice, or even an identically sized pie pan (although the pan would ruin any decorative edge you put on your crust). I tried using beans once. They did the job, but I decided the ceramic weights were worth the tiny investment because the beans scorched in the oven, stinking up the place. Also, the beans were then inedible, so I felt like I had just wasted perfectly good food. Still, they are something that you might have in your kitchen if you find yourself with a burning desire to blind bake a crust.

The crust I made for the Ham and Onion Pie with Rye Crust was finished slightly differently than in the procedure below. Those details will be given with the pie recipe. This procedure will give you a fully baked crust that’s ready for filling.


Blind Baked Pie Crust
The Rye Pie Crust Dough recipe below is shown in the photos for this procedure.

1 single-crust recipe of pie dough
nonstick cooking spray

1. Preheat oven to 400 F. Roll the dough into about a 12-inch circle. Gently lift and place it into a 9-inch pie pan, being careful to drape it into place and not stretch it. Gently prick the crust all over with a fork. You just want to make little marks, not stab through to the pan.


2. Spray nonstick cooking spray on one side of a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover the crust. Line the crust with the foil, cooking spray side down. Place pie weights on top of the foil.


3. Bake at 400 F for 20 minutes. Carefully remove the foil and weights, trying not to burn yourself or spill the hot weights everywhere.

4. Return the crust to the oven and bake at 400 F about 5-8 minutes more or until the crust is golden brown, and looks dry rather than doughy. Set on a wire rack and proceed as directed in your pie recipe.


Makes 1 9-inch baked pie crust.


Rye Pie Crust Dough

½ cup (about 2 ½ ounces or about 65 g) stone ground rye flour
½ cup (about 2 ½ ounces or about 65 g) all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon fine salt
5 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces
scant 1/3 cup ice water, plus more if needed

1. Combine rye flour, all-purpose flour and salt in a large bowl. Sift together or stir well with a whisk to combine.

2. Add butter pieces and cut into the mixture using a pastry blender, knives or your hands, until mixture is crumbly and no chunks of flour-coated butter are larger than peas.



3. Add the scant 1/3 cup ice water. Gently work the water into the flour and butter mixture until most of the flour is moistened and the dough holds together when squeezed. Add more water 1 tablespoon at a time if necessary. Try not to overwork the dough, and do not knead it.

4. When the dough has come together, form it into a ball, then flatten it into a smooth disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill until ready to use. The dough will be very stiff if thoroughly chilled, but still somewhat sticky. It is best to roll it out between two sheets of plastic wrap.


Makes 1 crust for a 9-inch pie pan.

Other recipes like this one: Basic Pie Crust, Whole Wheat Pastry, Easy Cream Cheese Pastry

One year ago: Pasta with Chickpeas, Shrimp and Spring Greens

Two years ago: Whole Wheat Pasta Dough and Spinach-Ricotta Pasta Filling, Simple Tomato-Garlic Sauce

Friday, April 29, 2011

Copper Coins


This wasn’t really the kind of recipe I usually jump at. At one time I probably would have made a face and walked away. Cooked carrots, an orange-colored retro-style dressing? I may be old-fashioned, but I’m definitely not retro. (There is a difference.) But I lingered over a recipe called “Copper Coins” in Recipes from the Root Cellar by Andrea Chesman nonetheless. I guess there’s nothing like having way too many carrots in the refrigerator to get one broaden one’s mind. Besides, the recipe was cheap and easy. I wouldn’t be out much even if I hated it.

Well, I didn’t hate it. I quite liked it in fact. I knew I would all along. Really I did.


Say what you must about a ketchup-based dressing, but there’s something satisfying about it. This one reminds me of the bottled French dressing I ate as a kid. It has, however, the fresher flavor that those of us who love to cook rely upon when it comes to homemade versus processed foods. Well, I did freshen it a little more with minced fresh ginger root (the original recipe called for powdered ginger) and updated it with a splash of Sriracha hot sauce.


I think if you love carrots, you might just love this dish. I suppose it’s really a salad, but it was a bit more satisfying at room temperature where it performed more like a vegetable side dish. The carrots are tender from a good blanching, but I think overcooking them would make this dish a disaster. If anything, I would err on the side of undercooking them so they still have some bite. I also wouldn’t go completely raw with the carrots unless you really like to crunch your way through your meal. Wait a minute. Perhaps with grated raw carrots…Hmmm…


Anyway, I liked this tangy dressing with its fresh ginger, spicy hot sauce and perky pick-up from soy sauce (trendier cooks and chefs would expound on theories involving umami here) on sweet, tender carrots. I’d never seen a recipe like this before, so its uniqueness on the modern table alone made it somewhat intriguing. Its flavor and style may be a bit retro, but some things deserve another chance.

To borrow some phrasing from the new Dr. Who, I’m retro now. Retro is cool. Although I don’t think I’ll be buying an avocado green refrigerator anytime soon.


Carrots with Ketchup-Ginger Dressing
Adapted from Recipes from the Root Cellar by Andrea Chesman

2 pounds carrots (about 5-6 large carrots)
¼ cup ketchup
1/3 cup water
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon brown sugar
2 tablespoons minced onion
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
1 teaspoon Sriracha or other hot chile sauce
¼ cup thinly sliced onion

1. Peel the carrots and slice diagonally about 1/8-1/4 inch thick.

2. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Prepare a large bowl of ice water and set it aside. Add the carrot slices to the boiling water and cook about 3 minutes or until the carrots are tender, but still firm and not mushy. Remove the carrots from the boiling water and plunge them into the ice water. When they have completely cooled, transfer to a colander and drain well.

3. Combine the ketchup, water, olive oil, vinegar, brown sugar, minced onion, garlic, soy sauce, ginger and Sriracha in the canister of a blender. Blend until completely smooth. Taste for seasoning and add salt if needed.

4. Transfer the drained carrots to a bowl. Add the sliced onion and the dressing mixture and toss to coat well. Serve at room temperature or chilled.

Makes 6-8 servings.

Other recipes like this one: Shaved Vegetable Salad with Cider Sage Vinaigrette, Simple Shredded Carrot Salad with Pomegranate Molasses Vinaigrette

One year ago: Coconut Cranberry Quick Bread

Two years ago: Wheat Sandwich Bread, Apricot and Almond Cookies with White Chocolate

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Chickpea and Spinach Curry


Thanks to a bonus box as part of our winter subscription to the CSA and the magical miracle of the early spring greenhouse, I recently had my first taste of locally-grown spinach. Since the weather had turned decidedly not green and growing, a big salad just sounded chilly. I dug through my (somewhat) organized files and pulled out a recipe for a dish I had repeatedly put aside in warmer weather: a chickpea and spinach curry with tomatoes.


This is a super-speedy week-night supper concoction that you can doctor to your taste or style. I’ve made it here as a curry, but since chickpeas, spinach and tomatoes are at home in a variety of cuisines, you could change the spices to Mediterranean herbs or Moroccan seasonings and have something new. I served it with brown basmati rice, but you could serve it as a stew with a chunk of bread (perhaps even naan if you keep it curry-style) or maybe even toss it with pasta or pour it over polenta.


While I’ve gone on record as someone who prefers to make my own spice blends, I’ve found myself with an embarrassment of store-bought curry powder in my cupboard, so I used it here. I also spiced my dish up quite a bit by including two dried red chile peppers. You could tone it down if you like, and I know there are a few of you who would like to kick it up even more. Suit yourself. This is as very versatile dish.


I’m amazed at how much flavor was packed into this simple dish: creamy chickpeas, tangy tomatoes (I happened to have fire-roasted tomatoes the day I made this) and green and earthy spinach. So, so simple. So, so delicious. This dish offers a really big bang for your buck. And since most of us have pretty busy schedules and time is really money too, Chickpea and Spinach Curry is a double bang. I’d say the average busy family cook could get this on the table without much hassle at all, say, in less than 20 minutes. In fact, if you’re serving it with rice, you’d better get the rice well on its way before you begin the curry because the rice will take significantly longer to cook.

Something so easy was a great solution to the week-night rush I found myself in. Something so quick was a great way to show off such good spinach without boiling the heck out of it. Something so warm and slightly soupy was a great comfort for those not-yet-springtime blues. Oh, and I used up some of that curry powder, too. I call that a win-win-win-win situation.


Chickpea and Spinach Curry
Adapted from Cooking Light magazine

1 tablespoon canola oil, ghee or other neutral oil
1 cup chopped onion (about 1 medium onion)
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
½ teaspoon coarse salt, divided
2 dried chile peppers (or to taste)
1 (15.5 ounce) can chickpeas (about 1 ½ cups) drained and rinsed
1 (14.5 ounce) can diced tomatoes (do not drain)
1 ½ teaspoons curry powder
6 ounces fresh spinach (about 4-5 cups), well washed and chopped
½ cup water
¼ cup chopped cilantro
juice of ½ lime

1. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, ginger and ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook about 3 minutes, stirring frequently. The onions should just be beginning to brown. Break the chile peppers in half and stir them in.

2. Add the chickpeas, tomatoes and curry powder. Simmer on medium heat for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Add the spinach, water and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook until the spinach wilts, about 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the cilantro and lime juice. Serve with rice or flatbread if desired.

Makes about 4 servings.

Other recipes like this one: Italian Chickpeas, Winter Squash and Onion Curry with Yogurt Sauce

One year ago: Sloppy Beans and Tomatoes

Two years ago: Double Banana Walnut Pancakes

Friday, April 22, 2011

Re-Purposing

Don’t get me wrong. I love green salads, especially when I can get locally-grown lettuces that weren’t trucked, shipped or flown in from the Emerald City or some other faraway place where things are always green. It’s just that I know there are a lot of those salads in my not-too-distant future. I don’t want to overdose before I even get there.

And, so, I did something else with my leftover Coconut Lime Dressing. It doesn’t take much to imagine a salad dressing as a sauce for your greens and therefore a good candidate for saucing other things. Like warm noodles.


Oh, did this lunch make me happy! I cooked some spaghetti, tossed it with cilantro, scallions, a little chile pepper and sunflower seeds. The Coconut Lime Dressing was a perfect partner to these ingredients. In fact, I think I liked it even more in this dish than I did on a salad. The heat from the noodles allowed some lime and herb aroma to perfume the whole experience. I love cilantro, so its inclusion was a given and the chile pepper gave it all a great punch of spice. And there’s something almost magical about the combination of roasted, salted sunflower seeds and this Coconut Lime Dressing. (I’d bet peanuts would be good, too.)


When I finished preparing this dish, which I had intended to be lunch just for me, I thought it looked like an awfully big single serving. In the interest of full disclosure, I, erm, ate the whole thing. Also, since I’m nearly hopeless with chopsticks and this was somewhat of a “working lunch,” I gave them up early and ate my noodles and re-purposed dressing with a trusty, multi-purpose fork.


Warm Noodles with Cilantro and Coconut Lime Dressing

¼ pound dry spaghetti or other long noodles
salt (for boiling noodles)
½ cup chopped cilantro
2 scallions, finely chopped
1 small chile pepper (or ½ larger pepper), seeded and cut into thin strips
2-3 tablespoons roasted salted sunflower seeds
¼ cup Coconut Lime Dressing

1. Cook the spaghetti or other noodles in boiling salted water until they reach desired tenderness. I like them softer than al dente for this dish. Drain the noodles and return them to the pan off the heat.

2. Add the cilantro, scallions, chile pepper and sunflower seeds and toss together. Add the Coconut Lime Dressing and toss well to coat.

Makes 1-2 servings.

Other recipes like this one: Noodles with Cilantro, Green Onions and Peanuts; Noodle Bowl with Spicy Greens

One year ago: Lentil Barley Burgers

Two years ago: Penne with Chicken Sausage, Olives and Walnut Sauce