Sweet Focaccia

“Aaaawww! You didn’t tell me you were going to kill it!” –Linus to Lucy as she cuts into a pumpkin in It’s the Great Pumpkin Charlie Brown

I kept the cute little pumpkin that we got in an October CSA box around until after Halloween. It served as a table decoration, but then I wanted to serve it for dinner. Typically, I realize that all of my squash are going to go bad if I don’t soon eat them or roast, puree and freeze them for later use. Then, I go into a bit of a baking frenzy and get several of the squash, including my little pumpkin, out of the way. This year, instead of taking a cleaver and mallet to the hard squash, I tried an idea from my mom (mom’s often have very good ideas) and baked the squash for about 30 minutes in the oven (I think mom uses the microwave) to soften the skin and flesh enough to cut it open more easily. I was just sure to poke the squash skin all over with a knife to allow some steam to escape and avoid explosions. It worked! I could then cut open the squash without pounding, scoop out the seeds, and continue baking until done.

If I don’t have any brilliant ideas about new recipes to try, I’ll make an old stand-by out of some of my new puree. Often, it’s a soup and/or this Pumpkin-Walnut Focaccia with Gruyere from Cooking Light magazine. Recently, however, inspired by recipes I’d seen for breakfast focaccia, I went on the sweet side. I messed around with the original savory recipe to make a sort of breakfast or snack or afternoon tea bread that has a sweeter, more buttery dough, a flatter slice, and pecans and dried cranberries on top.

Because of the presence of the pumpkin (and probably the extra butter that I added) the dough for this bread is very, very soft, moist and sticky. I just kept adding flour until I thought it looked right, which is a terrible thing to reveal if you’re trying to share a recipe with other people. I used my heavy-duty stand mixer to avoid making too much of a mess. The dough does become more manageable after the first rise, that is, it is more like a bread dough than a sticky batter. It needs to be soft so you can stretch and press it into a rimmed baking sheet, but if your end product is too moist or too stiff, I think you could shape it however you can or want.

The final product is a golden brown, sweet flatbread with plenty of pumpkin and spice flavor and a moist interior. I liked the cranberries and pecans on top, but you could use other nuts or dried fruit (I particularly like dates with pumpkin) or leave them off for a plain focaccia. While this is quite a sweet bread, which I first served with hot chocolate for a late evening non-supper and have been munching for breakfast and coffee breaks, I think it might go well on the dinner table also.

While I’d love to recommend this most as a breakfast or brunch bread, it does take time to make. The way I move in the morning, a breakfast starring this bread wouldn’t be served before 3 pm. I do think, however that the dough could be made ahead of time, and perhaps even pressed into the pan and refrigerated until ready to bake. I haven’t tried this yet, but I guess I now have something to keep me busy with the rest of my squash puree.

Sweet Pumpkin Focaccia
I use a heavy-duty stand mixer with a dough hook to make this bread because the dough is fairly moist and sticky. The amount of flour required to make the dough may depend on the moisture content of your pumpkin or squash puree. Canned pumpkin is fine in this recipe.

You could use different dried fruit or nuts to top the focaccia.

¾ cup warm water
½ cup brown sugar, divided
2 ¼ teaspoon (1 package) active dry yeast
1 cup whole wheat flour
3-4 cups bread flour, divided
4 tablespoons melted butter
1 cup pumpkin or other winter squash puree
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon nutmeg (preferably freshly grated)
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon cinnamon
2 tablespoons butter
½ cup dried cranberries
½ cup chopped pecans

1. In the bowl of a heavy-duty stand mixer, combine the water, 1 tablespoon brown sugar and the yeast. Let stand at least 5 minutes, or until the mixture is foamy.

2. Add the remaining sugar, whole wheat flour, 1 cup bread flour, 4 tablespoons melted butter, and pumpkin. With the paddle attachment, stir on low speed to make a wet batter. Cover and let stand 15-30 minutes. (This makes a “mini-starter” that I find adds flavor and consistency to my breads. To save time, you could skip the standing time an move on to the next step.)

3. Add 2 cups bread flour, salt, nutmeg, cloves, and cinnamon. Mix together until a wet dough forms. Remove the paddle attachment and replace it with the dough hook. Knead the dough on low to medium-low speed about 10 minutes, adding as much of the remaining flour as is necessary to create a smooth but somewhat sticky dough. You want it to be able to hold together as you pull or stretch it, but it will still be quite wet.

4. Form the dough into a smooth ball. Oil a large bowl or spray with cooking spray. Place the dough ball in the bowl and spray or oil the top. Place a sheet of plastic wrap over the dough. Cover with a towel. Let stand in a warm place for about 1 hour.

5. Gently press down the dough and form it into a new ball. Let stand 5 minutes.

6. Preheat oven to 400 F. Melt the 2 tablespoons butter. Brush about half the butter all over the bottom and sides of a large rimmed baking sheet. Press and stretch the dough into the baking sheet, filling it as completely as possible. The dough should be soft enough to shape easily.

Sprinkle the cranberries and pecans over the top and press them into the dough. Cover with a towel and let stand 20 minutes.

7. Press the dough all over with your fingertips to create large dimples. Brush the remaining butter over the dough. Bake at 400 F for 20 minutes or until the bread is golden brown. Cool slightly before slicing into squares or rectangles. Serve warm.

Makes about 12 servings. Keeps well in a zip-top bag for at least a day.

Other recipes like this one: Pumpkin Oatmeal Quick Bread with Dates and Pecans, Grandmama’s Pumpkin Pie, Pumpkin Pie Cupcakes

One year ago: Chocolate Orange Bread

Grains and Vinaigrette

I’ve done this before, and I’ll probably do it again. I took a vinaigrette that I like on a green salad and poured it over some cooked and cooled whole grains and a few other compatible ingredients to make a different, heartier salad. This isn’t innovative or revolutionary. It is, however, convenient, especially if you happen to keep extra cooked whole grains in the freezer. It’s also nutritious, and, when you get the combinations right, delicious.

This time, I used up some of the Cranberry Vinaigrette I made recently over some cooked barley and wild rice. The Cranberry Vinaigrette recipe makes quite a bit, so this recipe was good for using some of it up. I also cooked up the last of a little bag of pearled barley that had been sitting in the cupboard since I don’t know when. Wild rice also sounded good here, and, as the flavors seemed to be taking on an autumnal theme, I added dried cranberries and pecans. For crunch, I threw in some celery, and for a salty, chewy contrast, I added some little cubes of provolone cheese. I really would have liked to have some green onions to go along, but I didn’t have any on hand. My herb garden is still alive on the patio, however, so I used fresh chives instead, and added some parsley as well.

See, improvising such a salad is really pretty simple, especially if you know of some ingredients, particularly seasonal ingredients, that have an affinity for each other. In this case, the sweet and tart cranberry dressing went well with the sweet, crunchy pecans, simple celery, and, of course, more cranberries. Just about any grains would have worked, but I probably would not have put in asparagus or tomatoes or peppers in the mix, because I just don’t think they would have worked flavor-wise or with the seasonal spin I was putting on this salad.

Well, whatever the theory behind this dish, it’s very good, and it’s a good jumping-off point for tasty combinations based on whatever you might have in your cupboard or refrigerator or freezer. While I ate it as part of a simple supper alongside some roasted root vegetables and winter squash I also think it would be a good accompaniment on a fall or winter feast table. Of course, you could start out thinking of making a salad something like this, but end up with something completely different…and at least as delicious.

Barley and Wild Rice Salad with Cranberry Vinaigrette
You could make this salad vegan by leaving out the cheese, or add some beans to increase its protein content.

2 cups cooked barley
1 cup cooked wild rice
1 cup diced celery
½ cup dried cranberries, such as Craisins
½ cup chopped pecans
½ cup cubed provolone cheese
¼ cup parsley
¼ cup chopped green onions or fresh chives
½ cup Cranberry Vinaigrette

1. Combine all of the salad ingredients in a large bowl. Add the vinaigrette and stir until coated. Serve at room temperature or chilled.

Makes 6-8 servings. Leftovers can be covered and kept refrigerated for at least a few days.

Other recipes like this one: Wheat Berry Salad with Roasted Vegetables and Maple Walnut Vinaigrette, Three Grain Salad with White Beans and Artichokes

One year ago: Pasta with White Beans and Pesto

Pecan Cornbread

While I made a plain cornbread with the first servings of Squash and Pinto Bean Chili, when I served the leftovers, I wanted to try something different that would hopefully match the sweetness of the chili. I set out to make a bourbon-molasses cornbread with pecans, but the resulting bread was distinctly dominated by the pecans…Not that there’s anything wrong with that.

I began this recipe with my favorite cornbread recipe in Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone by Deborah Madison. I’ve been using an organic stone-ground cornmeal from a local mill, which is quite lovely. It actually tastes like corn. Go figure. Anyway, my usual cornbread is also good with more standard and easily available commercial brands of cornmeal, so you could use that, too. Also, instead of white, all-purpose flour I use whole wheat pastry flour, which not only boosts the WFQ* of the cornbread, but makes it taste great. I veered away from the original recipe by using molasses instead of honey to lightly sweeten the cornbread as well as give it a bit of that distinctive molasses flavor that I thought would go well with the chopped pecans.

The bourbon was for an extra little flavor boost. It was indeed subtle in the final product, but interesting nonetheless. Its flavor comes out best in a bite of warm cornbread. In fact, it really isn’t exactly a flavor, but more of an aroma for the tongue. Like the taste buds are picking up the molecules of toasty oak, caramel and alcohol that are wafting in with the bite of baked corn and wheat and eggs and milk. Subtle, but interesting.

Since the molasses flavor is not very strong, the pecans ended up being the favorite characters. They’re sweet and nutty and make the bread chunky and bumpy and crunchy, definitely a good accompaniment to the soft, sweet and earthy ingredients in the Squash and Pinto Bean Chili.

As usual, this cornbread is best the day it is made, preferably while it is still warm. The leftovers can be reheated and are still pretty good, but the bread does dry out quickly. I recommend that, if at all possible, you use a cast-iron skillet to make this or any cornbread. It will distribute the heat evenly and give you the nicest brown and crunchy edges. Baking cornbread in any other vessel just isn’t the same. You wouldn’t have to use the bourbon in this recipe if you don’t care to. I think another form of whiskey or rum might be good, or you can leave it out entirely.

*WFQ: Whole Food Quotient

Pecan Cornbread with Bourbon
Adapted from Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone by Deborah Madison.

You could use all-purpose flour instead of whole wheat pastry flour.

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 cup cornmeal
1 cup whole wheat pastry flour
½ teaspoon fine salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 eggs
2 tablespoons molasses
1 cup milk
2 tablespoons bourbon whiskey (optional)
1 cup chopped pecans

1. Preheat oven to 425 F. Place 1 tablespoon butter in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet (or 8-inch square baking pan) and place in the oven. When the butter has melted, remove the pan from the oven and brush the bottom and sides of the pan with the melted butter.

2. Melt the remaining 4 tablespoons butter. Set aside to cool slightly.

3. In a medium bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, salt and baking powder. Whisk or sift to combine. Set aside.

4. Beat the eggs in another medium bowl. Add the melted butter and whisk well to combine. Add the molasses, milk and bourbon and whisk to combine.

5. Add the egg mixture to the cornmeal mixture and stir until just a few dry spots remain. Add the pecans and stir gently to distribute evenly.

6. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake at 425 F for 20-25 minutes or until the edges are brown and pull slightly away from the sides of the pan. If desired, you can test for doneness by poking a wooden pick into the center of the cornbread. If it comes out free of wet batter, it is done. Cut into wedges (or squares) and serve warm.

Makes about 6 servings.

Other recipes like this one: Pumpkin Oatmeal Quick Bread with Dates and Pecans, Guinness Hazelnut Quick Bread

One year ago: Roasted Winter Squash Puree

Chili Comfort

Right about now, most of us probably need a little comfort. Perhaps you’re mourning the loss of the last of the leaves still clinging desperately to increasingly skeletal trees. Perhaps the autumn weather has finally blown in with a vengeance (or a tornado). Perhaps a raging blizzard sneaked up on you and blew away your plastic swimming pool. Whatever the comfort you might need, a bowl of sweet and spicy chili ought to do the trick.


This is a vegetarian concoction stuffed with butternut squash and pinto beans and spiced with a chipotle chile, cumin, coriander and smoked paprika. I’m always looking for more exciting ways to use winter squash, and it was about time to try a new chili recipe. I might be taking some liberties in calling this chili and not just stew. I based it on two similar recipes in different issues of the same magazine, and one called it “stew” while the other called it “chili.” Since I used it as a sort of tailgate-style comfort for all the silliness of televised professional football (prima donna players, bad officiating, analysts who won’t admit that certain teams or players aren’t as good as they thought, and color commentators, who can barely string words together into a coherent sentence, wetting themselves over superstars), I’m calling it chili.

This chili is a role model for the sweet and spicy flavor combination that I love so much. The butternut squash and corn are sweet and the chipotle chile is very spicy. The tangy tomatoes and splash of cider vinegar bring it together and the beans provide heft and body as well as a creaminess that matches the texture of the squash. The smokiness of the chile, cumin and smoked paprika kick this even more into comfort mode for me, since I can’t build a cozy fire in my apartment living room (legally.)

You could use just about any of the winter squashes for this recipe (except spaghetti squash), but I find butternut to be the easiest to peel and chop. Chipotle chiles can be very spicy, so if you want this to be milder, use less than a whole chile, or just replace it with a small amount of crushed red pepper flakes to taste (which won’t be as smoky). I buy chipotle chiles canned in adobo sauce and after I use the first one from the can, I freeze the rest, sauce and all, in a zip-top bag. When I need another chile, I just pry one out from the frozen mass or chop off a chunk. They last a long, long time.

Whether it’s sports or the weather or just a mediocre dinner repertoire that’s got you down, perhaps curling up with a bowl of Squash and Pinto Bean Chili can provide some consolation. That and the fact that the Yankees aren’t in the World Series this year.

Squash and Pinto Bean Chili
Based on recipes in Cooking Light magazine

2 tablespoons canola oil or vegetable oil
1 bell pepper, chopped
1 cup chopped onion
1 ½ teaspoon salt, divided
3 cups peeled butternut squash cut into ½ to ¾ inch cubes
3 cloves minced garlic
1 chipotle chile (canned in adobo sauce), finely chopped
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 (14.5 ounce) can diced tomatoes, preferably fire roasted (do not drain)
1 cup water
1 cup frozen corn
3 cups pinto beans (about 2 15-16-ounce cans) rinsed and drained
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1. Heat the canola oil in a Dutch oven or other large pot over medium heat. Add the pepper, onion and 1 teaspoon salt. Saute about 5 minutes, or until the pepper and onion are just beginning to brown. Add the squash and sauté about 3 minutes more, or just until the squash is beginning to brown.

2. Add the garlic, chipotle chile, cumin, coriander, smoked paprika, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Cook about 1 minute, stirring constantly.

3. Add the tomatoes. Cook, stirring frequently, about a minute or so, or until the liquid begins to thicken.

4. Add the water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat. Cook at a gentle boil for about 30 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender, stirring occasionally.

5. Add the corn and pinto beans. Return to a gentle boil and cook 5 minutes more. Stir in the vinegar. Taste for salt and add more if desired.

Makes about 6 servings.

Other recipes like this one: Chorizo and Chipotle Chili, Chickpea Stew with Dried Apricots

One year ago: Black Beans with Beets and Oranges