Showing posts with label Celeriac. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Celeriac. Show all posts

Monday, March 22, 2010

Spring Cleaning

Now that it’s spring (or so my Dr. Horrible’s Sing-Along Blog calendar insists) I’m increasingly tempted to cheat. Not on my taxes or on my diet (such as it is) or even at Ticket to Ride or Small World. No, instead my eyes gaze longingly at the covers of current cooking magazines and wander through the produce section of the markets. There are new things there. Pretty green things. I want to cheat on the perfectly good locally-grown foods waiting for me at home, just because they’re a little out of season.

Root vegetables and frozen corn and squash have been sitting, uncomplaining and obedient in our freezer and root cellar. Okay, so it’s not really a root cellar, just the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, but many things have kept surprisingly well there all winter. (Except for beets. Beets don’t keep. They lurk.) Despite the temptations of the flirty new spring vegetables, I manage to stay strong. There’s a lot left to enjoy before I break down and buy some asparagus that’s been trucked, flown or shipped in from Mexico, Chile, the Emerald City, or wherever things are green this time of year.

Soup seems to be a good catch-all for whatever is left, no matter what the season. It also still offers some hearty comfort when the days aren’t quite as warm as they look, or spring rains (and melts) threaten to drown your spirit (or your basement). I recently made a good soup with celeriac (aka celery root) which was waiting faithfully to be utilized, and some of the wild rice I had frozen after cooking up a bunch to make this salad.




As I was making this soup, I had The Barefoot Contessa on the TV in the other room. Ina Garten just happened to be making a celeriac remoulade and was speaking of the affinity of the celeriac for mustard. Not one to turn up my nose at such a piece of culinary serendipity, I added some dry mustard to the soup. I was thrilled by the flavor of the final product (I thrill pretty easily, I guess), and I think the mustard made the soup go even better with the Dark Rye Bread I served alongside it.

This is a pretty simple soup. To make a thicker base, I pureed half of it using an immersion blender. (It splattered quite a bit, but that’s what the apron is for!) You could also use a regular blender. Just be careful when pureeing the hot soup. I find it works well to remove the little insert in the top of the blender lid and cover the resulting opening with a folded-up towel while blending. This seems to help keep explosions to a minimum. (The apron can only do so much.)

As I clean out my refrigerator, freezer and cupboards (there’s plenty of stocked-up dried beans and grains, too), I’ll try not to post much that really clashes with the spring season (pumpkin pie for Easter, anyone?) If you’re really eager for springtime fare, I’ve added a new link to the sidebar titled “Favorite Spring Recipes.” It will take you to another set of links to Messy Apron posts containing some of my favorite spring recipes. Happy Spring, whatever you’re eating!

Celeriac, Potato and Wild Rice Soup
Based on a recipe in Cooking Light magazine

I used a homemade vegetable broth for this soup, but you could use canned broth, or chicken broth if it is more convenient.


2 tablespoons butter
1 medium onion, chopped
½ teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt, plus more if desired
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dry mustard
½ cup finely chopped carrot
1 medium celeriac (about ¾ pound untrimmed weight), finely chopped
¼ pound potatoes, peeled and finely chopped
4 cups vegetable broth
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons half and half
1 cup cooked wild rice


1. Melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add onion and ½ teaspoon salt. Saute 3 minutes, or until onion is beginning to soften and turn translucent. Stir in the garlic, pepper and dry mustard. Cook about 1 minute more.

2. Stir in the carrot, celeriac and potatoes. Add the vegetable broth and white wine vinegar. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and cook about 30 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.

3. Remove the pot from the heat. Spoon about half of the soup into a bowl (if using an immersion blender) or into a blender container. If using an immersion blender, blend the soup remaining in the pot until well-pureed. If using a conventional blender, blend the removed portion of the soup until well-pureed.

4. Carefully pour the removed soup back into the pot. Stir in the half and half and the wild rice. Taste the soup for salt and add more if desired. Return the pot to the heat to warm through if needed.

Makes about 6 servings.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Casse-Rosti

I don’t much go for mushy noodle casseroles that star cans of cream of whatever soups, even if at this point in history, they could actually have been passed down for a few generations. Off the top of my head, I really don’t know how to make any of these, which might just make me a woefully inadequate Midwesterner. That doesn’t mean, however, that I’m not going to warm up my kitchen (and my tummy) with a hot casserole on these cold January days.



Recently, I tried this one, which was based on a recipe in Cooking Light magazine. It is a play on the Rösti, which is usually sort of a big hash brown cake made in a pan on the stove. Typically, it gets flipped over when the bottom gets golden brown to be fried on the other side as well. I’ve made them, and I like them, but they do require a bit of strength and dexterity in the flipping step. I was happy to see that I could cheat by making similar ingredients into a casserole.

I substituted some shredded celeriac (also known as celery root) in the recipe (the original called for some turnip). If you’re not familiar with it, celeriac is a brown, knobby, sort of hairy, dirty-looking thing, perhaps not the kind of vegetable you’d want to meet in a dark alley. Once you peel off its gnarly skin, however, this vegetable redeems itself. It tastes strongly of celery with perhaps a bit of turnip to it. I’ve just started cooking with it myself, and I’m hooked.






The baked eggs nestled into the top of this casserole give it main-dish power. (You could leave them out if you just want a side dish.) I baked mine until the egg whites were firm and opaque and the yolks were just firm as well. It think stopping a bit sooner so that a punctured, still-soft yolk would coat the baked potato-celeriac mixture like a luxurious sauce might be especially fantastic.

This casserole has a great savory and tangy flavor from the yogurt and green onions and a bit of nutty zing from the Gruyere cheese. It gets brown and crunchy on the top and in the corners, just like a proper potato and cheese dish should. I might have gone back to the casserole dish after supper and scavenged a few of the brownest, crunchiest, stuck-on bits without sharing, but I’ll never admit it.




Potato and Celeriac Casserole with Baked Eggs Recipe
based on a recipe in Cooking Light Magazine
In this recipe, regular plain yogurt is drained to make it thicker. You could substitute with Greek-style yogurt and eliminate the draining step.

¾ cup (about 175 ml) plain yogurt
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour (about 15 ml)
8 ounces (225g) peeled potato
8 ounces (225g) peeled celeriac
¼ cup (about 50ml) finely chopped green onions (scallions), divided
3 ounces (about 90g) shredded Gruyere cheese (about 1 cup, packed)
2 tablespoons (30ml) butter, melted
1 teaspoon (5ml) coarse (Kosher) salt
¼ teaspoon (1ml) ground black pepper, plus more for garnish
¼ teaspoon (1ml) freshly grated nutmeg
Cooking spray, oil or butter to grease the casserole dish
4 large eggs

1. Place the yogurt in a sieve lined with paper towel or several layers of cheesecloth. Place the sieve over a bowl and allow to drain for at least 30 minutes. This will allow the yogurt to thicken as some of its excess liquid drains away. You can skip this step if you use the thicker Greek-style yogurt, or if you’re just not that picky.


2. Preheat the oven to 400 F (200 C). Shred the potato and celeriac with the shredding blade of a food processor. You could also grate them by hand on a box grater. If you do, I would recommend shredding the celeriac first, since the potatoes may turn brown quickly.

3. Set aside about 2 tablespoons (30ml) green onions for garnish. In a large bowl, combine the shredded potato, celeriac, cheese, melted butter, remaining green onions, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mix well.

4. Coat a 2 quart casserole or baking dish with cooking spray (or oil or butter). Spread the potato mixture in the dish. Bake at 400 F for 30 minutes.

5. Remove the casserole from the oven. Create 4 evenly spaced indentations in the top with the back of a spoon. Crack and gently pour 1 egg into each indentation.


6. Return to the oven and bake about 10 minutes or until the egg whites are firm and opaque and the yolk is done to your liking. Garnish with reserved green onions and a few grinds of black pepper. To serve, cut into four sections, each containing an egg.

Makes 4 main dish servings.

If there are any leftovers, cover and store in the refrigerator. Reheat in the microwave and serve. The egg will probably cook to a more firm point upon reheating, but if you’re okay with that (as I am) the leftovers are mighty fine for breakfast the next day, and are probably best not left much longer than that.