I
recently read The Food Explorer by
Daniel Stone, which turned out to be a delightful intersection of three things
that I love: food, horticulture, and adventure stories.
The Food Explorer: The True Adventures
of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats is a biography of David
Fairchild who spent the turn of the 20th century collecting plants
from all over the world with the goal of introducing new foods to grow in the
United States. What may have been his greatest, or at least his most showy,
accomplishment is the introduction of the Japanese cherry trees that bloom so
beautifully in the spring in Washington D.C.
Stone
takes us through Fairchild’s life from his youthful obsession with travelling
to Java to bumping into and bonding with the right kind of people to get him
there to being the guy who could send the next food explorers out on their adventures.
He was dedicated and affable, the right kind of nerd to get a job done while
being attractive to the people who would be willing to pay for his projects.
While
Fairchild may have begun as a somewhat obsessive and socially awkward young man,
he was taken under the wing of Barbour Lathrop, a wealthy bachelor who made him
kind of a personal project. And took him around the world multiple times. Lathrop
wasn’t the only influence from which Fairchild benefited (he married into Alexander
Graham Bell’s family), but he really seemed to take good care of the resources people
invested in him.
As
Fairchild settled down and stopped globetrotting, he was responsible for
sending out other successful food explorers, such as Wilson Popenoe, who was
obsessed with avocados, and Frank Meyer. While few people may have been acquainted
with Fairchild (or Popenoe) before The Food
Explorer was published, Meyer’s name is more familiar. Meyer, an extraordinarily
obsessive, and probably quite clinically depressed individual, is the one who
brought the tasty, sweeter lemon from China, the one that was eventually named
after him.
It’s
hard not to feel like David Fairchild led a rather charmed life. He attracted
patronage and made influential connections, but he was no manipulator or
freeloader. Sometimes, he seems like a loveable goof, others like a naïve genius.
We know what he thought because he wrote so much down. We know what he accomplished
because we’re still eating and enjoying a lot of it today.
I don’t
like to give too much of the content away when I write about a book I enjoy,
but try instead to tell you what I like about it. I try to say what it is about
the style or the story that I enjoyed. In the case of The Food Explorer when I think back on the way it was written, I
feel like Daniel Stone did the hard work of letting a good tale tell itself. The
presence of the author is not in embellishment or sensation, but in the
appreciation of a good story, the life of an interesting man who made positive contributions
to the world he lived in.
If
you like The Food Explorer by Daniel
Stone, you might also like The Garden of
Invention by Jane S. Smith and The
Botany of Desire by Michael Pollan.
One year ago: 14 Favorites with Citrus Fruits
Thanks to Jenna, Keith, Cate,
and Julia for giving me this book for Christmas!
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